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  • saw blade questions

    okay, so I got a piece of polycarbonate plastic I was using for a throat plate caught and had some major kickback (bent the screw holding it in place) and it appears to have bent my blade as well (eyes and fingers are okay, wife is not)

    I was using a porter cable razor variable tooth blade- was an awesome blade for $30. Ripping pine 2x8s gave almost perfect edges, even on a bevel (made some very simple, deep shadowbox shelves with a 35 degree bevel to create a camphered edge).

    I don' think the saw is damaged, I replaced the throat plate screw, put on the stock ridgid blade and it cuts pretty cleanly, no vibration, square and accurate, but my razor vibrates and chews up the wood. I'm guessing I can't straighten it out. I don't see any obvious defects like a chipped tooth...

    my question is this- freud has a 50 tooth combo blade at HD for ~$30, the same price as the razor- any exp with this blade? I recognize the freud name more than porter cable- as far as blades go, but I may just get another PC variable tooth blade. Just spent all my cash on the saw, don't think the budget can handle a pricey blade right now.

  • #2
    I know what you mean about available funds and the outlay for a premium blade. I think I I got the blade your talking about. It's a Freud TK406, 60 tooth, HiATB blade. It was in the $30-$40 range. It has all the features associated with the premium blades, thin kerf, micro granual carbide tips, lazer cut arbor and tuning question mark thingees, the truing ring around it for straightness or vibration or??? AND it was in my price range.
    It cuts fine for my purposes( beginner projects), but I think I've had to slow my feed rate because of the Hi rake on the teeth. Could just be my imagination through, or maybe it's the red oak I'm cutting.

    Comment


    • #3
      Originally posted by Hector B
      I know what you mean about available funds and the outlay for a premium blade. I think I I got the blade your talking about. It's a Freud TK406, 60 tooth, HiATB blade. It was in the $30-$40 range. It has all the features associated with the premium blades, thin kerf, micro granual carbide tips, lazer cut arbor and tuning question mark thingees, the truing ring around it for straightness or vibration or??? AND it was in my price range.
      It cuts fine for my purposes( beginner projects), but I think I've had to slow my feed rate because of the Hi rake on the teeth. Could just be my imagination through, or maybe it's the red oak I'm cutting.
      The TK series is now called the "Avanti" series....they're made to the same standards as the Diablo line. They're good blades and are decent values, but are essentially Freud's entry level line. Their Industrial series is a step up in quality, with harder carbide, larger sharper teeth, and are often just a few dollars more. The TK406 is a 60T crosscut blade with ATB teeth, not Hi-ATB like those found on a melamine/plywood blade. A high hook angle should increase the feedrate, not slow it down. It's more likely that the feedrate has slowed because of the increased number of teeth if your previous blade had a lower tooth count, or could be from pitch build up on the teeth....make sure it's clean, and that the saw is aligned.

      rprice54 - I think you can do better than the 50T combo from HD. For $35 delivered Amazon has the Freud LU86R010 40T thin kerf from their Industrial series which is a very good general purpose blade at a bargain price that'll cut cleanly on a wide range of cuts....my highest recommendation in this price range. http://www1.epinions.com/content_227985493636
      http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...915142?ie=UTF8

      If you're looking for a cleaner cut, at the expense of a slightly slower feedrate and less aggressive ripping capability, look into the Freud LU88R010 60T TK for $45 delivered. I love this blade.
      http://www1.epinions.com/content_226312687236

      The Tenryu 50T combo from Holbren is $50 delivered and has similar performance characteristics of the LU88, but offers the flatter bottom kerf from the raker tooth. This is a full kerf blade that will feed a bit slower. http://holbren.com/product.php?produ...5&cat=0&page=1
      Last edited by hewood; 07-31-2006, 10:51 PM.

      Comment


      • #4
        blades are 15% off at Amazon now

        sorry, looks like it ended yesterday.
        Last edited by CheekyMonkeyWrench; 07-31-2006, 11:59 PM.

        Comment


        • #5
          okay, lesson learned. I got the polycarb to work well with my ridgid blade as a ZCI, thought I would be cool and make a dado throat plate as well- bad idea. two broken chippers later and now I'm out my dado set and regular blade... so far all I've done with this new saw is tear up blades... not to mention to the stress of the motor hanging up two times already on the throat plates. (I think I raised the blade up too slow, instead of cutting through it just melted and a big peice got stuck in the chippers.) my wife wants me to sell the saw.

          so no more polycarb. it's just too hard I think. I'll stick with making router bases with it. 1/4 plywood for the throat plates from now on.

          so now I'm in the market for a dado set as well. found some 8" freud sets on ebay that are supposed to be brand new... there's also these "unstamped" irwin dado sets for cheap... maybe too cheap to be safe. Grizzly has a $50 set that seems decent. Maybe I'll just stick with my router.

          Back to topic- I like the 40T industrial blade at amazon, although I was so happy with the PC blade I think I will get another. it ripped faster than my other combo blades and had a nearly glue ready edge. maybe I can catch another sale at amazon...

          Comment


          • #6
            Before buying a new blade, take a look at the August Woodworkers Journal. They did a VERY detailed evaluation of 10" saw blades. I was surprised at how well some of the cheaper blades came out.

            Here in Chattanooga, both HD and Lowe's carry the magazine, so I assume their stores carry it in other locations as well.

            Steve

            Comment


            • #7
              Originally posted by INTELLICON
              Before buying a new blade, take a look at the August Woodworkers Journal. They did a VERY detailed evaluation of 10" saw blades. I was surprised at how well some of the cheaper blades came out.

              Here in Chattanooga, both HD and Lowe's carry the magazine, so I assume their stores carry it in other locations as well.

              Steve
              It's REALLY important to note that the cheaper blades did well in that particular comparison primarily because they factored price into the equation. Most of the cheaper blades cutting performance was pretty bad, some were decent, but the same old more costly stalwarts of Forrest, CMT, Amana, and the Freud F410 were the ones with the best cutting performance. The DW7657 cut very poorly in this test yet has given the WWII a run for it's money in other tests, so I suspect it may have been defective... that blade's on par with the WWII and the F410 IMO. Had they included the Freud LU86 in the test, the outcome of their price factored results may have been different...that's a great performing blade for the money IMHO.

              FWIW, the PC Razor got mediocre performance results in comparison to the rest of the pack, but the price brought it's total point score up a bit. Live a little...try a better blade!

              Comment


              • #8
                It's also REALLY important to note that polycarbonate is the wrong material to be making ZCIs and dado throat plates with. It's brittle and will shatter (as you now know FOR THE SECOND TIME). For the cost of those two ruined blades you could have had all the factory made ZCIs you would ever need from one of the aftermarket manufacturers which have been mentioned on this forum many times. Even a trip to a local WW store such as WoodCraft would have been cheaper and safer in the long run that the route you took.

                Please, if you have a question about something, ask. I certainly will not have all the answers but someone on here will have been there before and have some guidance to help you do the job safely.

                Unfortunately you can't search this forum using common words or phrases such as ' ZCI ' , this ability is turned off (I am guessing) because it would put too much of a load on the server whilst it performed such an intrusive search through all the thousands of forum posts.

                Here's a link to a recent thread on ZCIs;
                http://www.ridgidforum.com/forum/sho...earence+insert

                Might-T-Track's UHMW ZCIs are only $12.99 plus shipping...how can you go wrong? Buy at least three of them and make one for your dado, one for a std blade set at 90 deg., and another for future or some other special setup you
                have.
                http://www.ttrackusa.com/zeroclearanceinserts.htm
                Last edited by Bob D.; 08-01-2006, 07:09 PM.
                ---------------
                Light is faster than sound. That's why some people seem really bright until you hear them speak.
                ---------------
                “If I had my life to live over again, I'd be a plumber.” - Albert Einstein
                ---------
                "Its a table saw.... Do you know where your fingers are?"
                ---------
                sigpic http://www.helmetstohardhats.com/

                Comment


                • #9
                  Originally posted by Bob D.
                  It's also REALLY important to note that polycarbonate is the wrong material to be making ZCIs and dado throat plates with. It's brittle and will shatter (as you now know FOR THE SECOND TIME). For the cost of those two ruined blades you could have had all the factory made ZCIs you would ever need from one of the aftermarket manufacturers which have been mentioned on this forum many times. Even a trip to a local WW store such as WoodCraft would have been cheaper and safer in the long run that the route you took.

                  Please, if you have a question about something, ask. I certainly will not have all the answers but someone on here will have been there before and have some guidance to help you do the job safely.

                  Unfortunately you can't search this forum using common words or phrases such as ' ZCI ' , this ability is turned off (I am guessing) because it would put too much of a load on the server whilst it performed such an intrusive search through all the thousands of forum posts.

                  Here's a link to a recent thread on ZCIs;
                  http://www.ridgidforum.com/forum/sho...earence+insert

                  Might-T-Track's UHMW ZCIs are only $12.99 plus shipping...how can you go wrong? Buy at least three of them and make one for your dado, one for a std blade set at 90 deg., and another for future or some other special setup you
                  have.
                  http://www.ttrackusa.com/zeroclearanceinserts.htm

                  It seems that any of the UHMW inserts I've tried have been warped, and I've read of others with similar issues. Phenolic inserts are much more consistent but tend to run in the $18-$20 range.

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    preachin' to the choir my friend. I wanted to post my eperience with the polycarbonate in case someone else came along with the same idea. i did a search and didn't find anything.

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      i just use 1/2 inch mdf, its flat, fits perfectly ,extremely cheap and wont chew your blades up.

                      just a thought

                      Nelz

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        okay, you've twisted my arm. I can't find anyone saying anything bad about the Freud LU86R010- ordering mine today, I'll post my very unofficial results when I get it... now for a dado set...

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Searching for ZCI

                          Originally posted by Bob D.
                          Unfortunately you can't search this forum using common words or phrases such as ' ZCI ' , this ability is turned off (I am guessing) because it would put too much of a load on the server whilst it performed such an intrusive search through all the thousands of forum posts.
                          There is a 4 character minimum on the search function. I add the * to the end of ZCI and am able to retrieve many of the relevant threads:

                          ZCI*

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Yep, that worked all right.
                            ---------------
                            Light is faster than sound. That's why some people seem really bright until you hear them speak.
                            ---------------
                            “If I had my life to live over again, I'd be a plumber.” - Albert Einstein
                            ---------
                            "Its a table saw.... Do you know where your fingers are?"
                            ---------
                            sigpic http://www.helmetstohardhats.com/

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Related Question

                              I've only just made my first 2 ZCI inserts out of some maple ply, left over from my kitchen cabinets. One for my Frued DD208, 8" dado set at 3/8" wide and the other for my new Avanti 60 tooth thin kerf blade. I used 60# picture hanger for the little notch area. It was fun making them. Almost like a right of passage.

                              Question: From the looks of the notch on the stock table insert the notch is just to keep the insert from flying out. Is this correct

                              Comment

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