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is my 3650 sqaure?

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  • is my 3650 sqaure?

    think I know the answer- but I've set up my saw the best I can with the miter gage and a block of wood with a screw in the end (tried the manual's suggestion of a combination square as well). Using the same tooth on my freud blade I can get it to just barely tap the screw jig that is clamped to my miter gage (pressed all the way towards the blade to eliminate play in the slot). To my eye I can't see any gaps or difference. I don't have access to a dial gage at this point.

    Same with the fence. It visually lines up with both miter slots and passes the same tests with my miter gage, front and back- no gaps.

    When I make a cut, the dimensions are dead on with respect to the scale, repeatable, and they are square (at least to my aluminum framing square) from both sides of the blade using the fence.

    My concern is that when cutting to the right of the blade (fence to the right) the workpiece seems to just barely catch the back teeth of the blade. it's not a lot, no burn marks, clean edges, but enough to change the sound of the cutw hen the wood gets back there. My concern is for kickback and safety- is it normal to have a little of this? When cutting to the left I don't experience this and it just feels safer. Is my blade warped? It's brand new.
    Last edited by rprice54; 08-19-2006, 09:40 AM.

  • #2
    Try switching back to the stock blade to eliminate the possibility of the Freud being warped....brand new or not things can happen...in transit, in the stores, on the saw, etc., etc. The cut of the stock blade probably won't be as good, but the odds of having two warped blades are slim unless your blade storage, blade handling, or arbor nut tightening habits are causing the potential warpage.

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    • #3
      rprice, Normally there is a slight skew to the fence, about .001 from front to back. This prevents the fence from trapping the wood between the fence and the back of the blade. If you move the fence to the left side of the table that would reverse the skew. If by chance you are left handed and would prefer to use the fence on the left side of the table you can adjust the fence to set the skew for the other side of the blade usage.

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      • #4
        thanks for the replies. I think I will try to adjust the fence- as long as I can keep the cuts square. The fact that it doesn't happen making crosscuts with my miter gage and when the fence is on the left makes me think it's the fence.

        Comment


        • #5
          You may want to double check the arbor alignment (ie the blade square to the table). Ensure you blade is parallel to the miter slots. The condition you describe can be caused by the fence (back of fence more to the left than the front), or the blade-to-miter slot alignment (back of blade too much to the right). To adjust the blade alignment, you will have to loosen the arbor mount bolts (front and back) and adjust it with the lever that is in the back (under the splitter/blade guard) and then retighten. Sounds like you are just a couple thousandths off. If you try a miter cut to the right of the blade and you have the same problem, it is definitely the blade alignment. Realize there is a little slop in the miter gauge, so keep the pressure to the same side of the slot all the way thru the cut.

          my $.02

          Go
          Practicing at practical wood working

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          • #6
            I went back and tried to fine tune my gage with a sharper point and it looks like my blade was off by just a hair in the back (~1 piece of paper wide) so I loosened all but the front middle trunion and adjusted it to as close as I could get it, but by the time I tightened the trunions it had moved back a little but is better than before. I didn't have time to test my fence out with the sharper gage but that will be next. I hadn't thought about a miter cut to the right, I'll try that today.

            Is there a specific order to tighten the trunions so it doesn't move after I've set it?
            Last edited by rprice54; 08-22-2006, 09:49 AM.

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            • #7
              I don't know that there is a "proper" bolt tightening sequence, but I lightly snugged the center one holding the lever, then snugged the rear outsides, then tightened the back fully and then tightened the front.. That said, it took me a couple tries before I got it dead on.
              Thinking out loud here: Leaving the center trunnion bolt tight (as the manual says) for minor adjustment may be providing a little torque that is trying to return it to the original setting. First, I would loosen it and the other front ones to eliminate any torque pressure, than snug the center one (before loosening the back). This should relieve any stress from the original setting.
              From your description, you are well within limits for safe operation, but if it was me, (and it was when I set up my saw and during one readjust) I would be trying to get it "dead on" also!

              HTH's
              Go
              Practicing at practical wood working

              Comment


              • #8
                I've adjusted the fence, the blade, just can't quite get it. I'm probably being overly picky, this thing is still WAY better than my previous ryobi ts. the cuts are dead on, reproducible, and square. I'll leave it alone.

                just got my dado blade, time to play with that now...

                Comment


                • #9
                  Originally posted by rprice54
                  I've adjusted the fence, the blade, just can't quite get it. I'm probably being overly picky, this thing is still WAY better than my previous ryobi ts. the cuts are dead on, reproducible, and square. I'll leave it alone.

                  just got my dado blade, time to play with that now...
                  You had a BT3?
                  k
                  Poplar Branch Wood Crafts

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Ken- I had a BTS15. It wasn't horrible. I made some decent stuff with it, but it was a pain to get square and accurate every project, and it was limited to 20" rip on the right and 8" on the left. not much capacity. it looks rather sad next to my 3650.

                    All is well though, my father in law has offered me his 36" TV (he's getting plasma) for my old saw. Not a bad trade in my book.

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