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Scracthes from miter gage

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  • Scracthes from miter gage

    Hi all,
    I was using my TS2424 last night and used the miter gage for some cross cuts.
    After cleaning the sawdust from the top, I noticed scrathces in the CI
    from the miter gage. They do not appear to be very deep at all, but it !@#$ off!
    I just hours the other day cleaning, remove stains/rust & conditioning the tabel top.
    I have searched the forums for ways to remove them without creating other scratches,
    but there seems to be vast opinions on how to remove them or just don't worry about them.
    Should I sand/polish the bottom of the miter gage?
    What can I use on the CI to try to eliminate these scratches?
    I would greatly appreciate any advice as to how to remove them.
    (Cool! I still have 10 fingers!)

  • #2
    I don't worry about little scratches that appear here and there on my TS. After all, it's a TS and not a fresh off the showroom floor new car. Tools getted banged up in the course of doing what it is they do, it's just the nature of the beast. That being said, about once a year of so I use a lightly moisened, with WD40, Scotchbrite pad, the one made for use on feflon pans, along with my ROS and buff out as many scratches as I can.
    I decided to change calling the bathroom the "John" and renamed it the "Jim". I feel so much better saying I went to the Jim this morning.


    • #3
      I have the TS3650, and the miter guage body is aluminum. The aluminum is softer and does not scratch the cast iron (unless there is metal shavings or grit under it), but it will wear the wax off the CI and start "galling", leaving aluminum on the CI. It also causes it to drag. I cleaned the bottom of the miter guage and then applied a layer of clear polyethylene packing tape. I trimmed the excess off with a sharp knife. I then put a coat of wax on it. This may work for you too. If the area of your miter guage that is scratching the top is aluminum, check to make sure there are no steel bolts/screws atanding proud of the surface that are causing the scratching.
      As for removing scratches, I haven't bothered with mine. Wet/dry paper willclean them up, but will also change the look of the surface, so you may have to do the entire top to get a uniform finish, if that is what you are looking for.
      Sorry to hear about the scratches after your hard work.
      Practicing at practical wood working


      • #4
        It's a table saw, not furniture. I take my oscillating sander to my table saw whenever it's rough with scratches or rust. Cleans it right up. I never much cared what it looked like, its just another tool.


        • #5
          Once you get the table fixed up again here is an excellent product to keep the miter from scratching. I would apply it to the bottom of the miter head.


          • #6
            Thanks all for the info.
            I did sand/polish the bottom of the miter gage to 400 grit wet/dry paper.
            It is is a lot smoother. There seemed to be some edges (flashing) that were not removed from the time of the original casting an inital maching.
            It also appears there might have been some grit on the plywood I was cutting.
            I know that it a tool and is going to get used/abused and scratches are going to be part of the game. I just was concerned that it may become a problem if they were to deep.

            I'll try to use some of that UHMW tape that Wayne mentioned. Is that only available on line or do think I could find it locally.

            BigTHom/Gofor what grit sandpaper do you recommend to remove the scratches?

            Again, Thanks for the response.
            (Cool! I still have 10 fingers!)


            • #7
              As I said, I haven't polished out any of mine; However, I have flattened the bottom of a few hand planes, which were also cast iron (although probably a little bit harder). I also will say I usually am too conservative and start out with too fine a grit. That said, I would start with 220 wet/dry using WD40 or a cutting oil as a lubricant. If that goes too slow, you can go coarser. Then go with 320 or 400 and then 600. If you hand sand with the 600 in line with the original surface machine marks, it may match fairly well with the factory surface.
              If you want to really put a shine on it, wipe off the oil and use the 600 dry on a high speed (14000 orbit per min) 1/4 sheet sander. The graphite in the cast iron will load up the sandpaper and will buff it to a shine you can see yourself in. Realize that this will also make any small defect or scratch really stand out, so I don't recommend it.
              All above was to answer your question, but the most important thing for the table is that it is flat. Any scratch you blend out will leave a small divot, which if done repeatedly can destroy your flat surface. If you have any scratches, or gouges where the surrounding metal has pushed up above the table, they should at least be flattened to the table top to avoid scratching or marking the work piece. This is not a large problem with cast iron, as it is so brittle from the high carbon that it usually doesn't push up much of a ridge when scratched, but I am including this because someone with an aluminum saw table (ie ts2400) may also use this technique. Aluminum is bad for the metal pushing up around and at the end of a scratch/gouge.
              Another tip about cast iron: It contains a high level of cabon, so all the sanding dust is loaded with it and will turn anything it touches black. If sanding it dry, use a respirator, and you may want to wear gloves to keep it off your hands even if using a lubricant.
              Good luck

              Practicing at practical wood working


              • #8
                Thanks Gofor.
                I'll take the info to heart.
                (Cool! I still have 10 fingers!)