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  • TS2400 Fence Issue

    Greetings,

    I have a fairly new TS2400; great saw. I do have one issue that I'm struggling to resolve. The heads of the bolts holding the rip fence to the piece that slides along the front rail (technical term fails me right now), stand proud of the table top. They're the bolts that get loosened to adjust the fence when not parallel to the blade/miter slots. I'm not sure if it's one of the bolts or all of the bolts that stand proud, but it prevents any board I'm ripping from laying perfectly flat on the table. There's a good 1/8" gap between the board and the table.

    When ripping wider boards/plywood, it doesn't to seem much of a problem. When ripping narrower boards (~6-8" wide), I'm getting problems with the blade burning the wood, and the board doesn't feed as smoothly; it feels like I'm fighting it. I figure the issue is being caused by the fence bolts tipping the board and causing misalignment.

    I'm new to woodworking and the TS2400 is my first table saw, so "operator error" is highly likely. Also, I first noticed the issue after adjusting the fence's parallelism, so again, "operator error" is highly likely. I've tried tightening the bolts again, but they were plenty tight already and didn't make a difference. I can't see any obvious way of getting the bolt heads lower.

    Any suggestions/help are appreciated!

    Thanks,
    Jon
    Still able to count to 21....

  • #2
    TS2400 Fench Attachment Bolts

    Welcome to the forum Jon.

    I've had my TS2400 for about 1-1/2 years – great saw!

    I just checked my saw and the bolts in question sit just a small amout below the table's surface, say 1/16" to 1/128" below. The bolt heads do extent above the surface of the fence attachment fitting. The bolts are not standard bolts. The are a grade 5 bolt with a flange head, no washer is used under them. It looks to me as though these bolts have a shallower bolt head than a standard bolt's.

    If the bolts on your saw are the same as mine, then I suggest looking a lowering the fence rail a small amount. There are several mounting bolts passing through the table's edge into the rail. Losen them and drop the rail just enough to provide clearance. You'll probably need to readjust the fence to table clearance and possibly the fence's alignment to the miter slots and vertical to the table top.

    Then enjoy the saw. Do a search on TS2400 and find what others think of the saw and their recommendations for making it even better.
    Dick

    Comment


    • #3
      Thanks

      Thanks Dick. I gave that a shot last night. Things are much better, but not perfect (maybe I'm expecting too much). There's a rod the exends from under the table in inserts itself on the backside of the fence. I couldn't find a way to easily take it out of the equation, so it acted like a pivot point. I couldn't simply lower the rail, I had to do see-saw type of operation.

      Net result is the rail now slants down to the left. With the fence close to the blade, the bolts are now below the table. When I move the fence out to the right edge of the main table, or farther out onto the table extension, the bolts still sit proud of the table, but only 1/16 or so. With it being that far from the blade, it doesn't have much of an impact on the wood/blade alignment, so it seems to be perfectly usable.

      I did a batch of test rips with wide and narrow stock. Definite improvement! Thanks again.

      Jon
      Still able to count to 21....

      Comment


      • #4
        you can't lower the fence on the new TS2400.

        Here's what I did a couple weeks ago:

        took the bolts out and matched them up at the hardware store with the corresponding nuts (you'll see why I bought the nuts below).

        I threaded the nut onto the bolt and put it in a vice grip, holding it by the nut. I then ground down the head of the bolt with my dremel (bench grinder would work better, but i don't have one).

        then, I measured the original length of the bolt and made a mark on the threads.

        next, i threaded the nut onto the new bolt until the mark was just exposed and proceeded to cut along the nut to length, for a nice clean cut.

        Then I removed the nut after the bolt cooled and reinstalled it with some thread lock and it now sits below the table top.

        The reason i didn't just grind down the bolt heads right on the fence is: i wanted to make sure they were fairly symetric, both on top and the sides. If i ground them down while still installed, the sides would probably would've been marred. Removing them in the future most likely would have been out of the question.

        This is after Ridgid couldn't offer a sollution.

        Comment


        • #5
          Thanks Again

          Cheeky,

          Thanks for the tip on griding down the bolt heads. I may give that a shot. While my current set-up greatly reduced the wood/blade alignment issue I had, the face of the fence is no longer square to the table top; the top of the fence is tipped toward the blade. Consequently, the thickness of material being ripped will affect the measurement of how far the fence is from the blade.

          Just for reference, I stopped by the local HD to check their display model. No clearance problems. Guess we're just "lucky". The front rail on the floor model also seem a touch lower than mine (using the bottom of the miter slot as a reference point). I had considered griding down the bolt heads too, but was likewise leary of damaging the sides.

          It's also nice to know I'm not alone With all the glowing reports here on the forum, I figured it had to be me and my newbie-ness.

          Thanks again,
          Jon
          Still able to count to 21....

          Comment


          • #6
            Problem Solved

            For those keeping score at home....

            I found an exploded parts diagram here on ridgid.com. There I found that the bolts are 1/4-20 x 3/4" hex-head.

            I went to the local HD and found a 1/4-20 3/4" machine screw with a slotted-head. The head was much shorter than the hex-head from my fence. The head on the slotted-head screw was the same diameter as the hex-head, so I figured there's no need for a washer.

            I replaced the 2 hex-head bolts on the left side of the fence with the machine screws, re-leveled my front rail, and all is good!

            Jon
            Still able to count to 21....

            Comment

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