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  • #16
    Hi Fred - I recently bought a Craftsman 22400 12" BS that's made by Rikon. So far I'm really impressed for the price. It has a huge cast iron table, 7" resaw, and 3/4hp motor. It's on sale for $270, so after blades and even a mobile base you should come in at or under budget. It's looking like one of their better tools IMO.


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    • #17
      If Cummins Tool Sales come your way you can pick up one of Ridgid's re-certified saws for $249. The question to me, at least, is that if they are re-certified then why is the warranty only one year on parts and labor. Hmmmm, I bought it anyway. The price has left a lot of room for the needed improvements on these saws.
      Later,
      Chiz
      https://www.ridgidforum.com/core/ima...lies/frown.pnghttps://www.ridgidforum.com/core/ima...es/redface.pnghttps://www.ridgidforum.com/core/ima...s/rolleyes.pnghttps://www.ridgidforum.com/core/ima...lies/smile.png

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      • #18
        Hey Hewood!!!

        If you got a vertical bike rack I bet you could squeeeeze another tool in your shop.

        That is one sweet looking saw.
        Last edited by Hector B; 09-19-2006, 07:54 PM.

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        • #19
          I was looking at the new Sear's bandsaws and they are nice. I was still trying to decide untill a friend of mine said if I wanted a band saw to take his. He never uses it and wants the room in his garage. It's a old Black & Decker 14" stationary saw with a open stand. It only has a 1/2 hp motor but it runs good. The motor has four different pulley sizes for different speeds. I did some research and found out the saw is about 25 years old and there are no parts or manuals available for it. It looks like a Delta knock off. I cleaned it up and put on a Timberwolf blade and it cut good. There is a little vibration. The belt I think may be original. The tension is applied by the weight of the motor. You just have to lift the motor to change pulleys. I was thinking of getting a link belt and replacing the tires. The guide blocks are ok but one of the thrust bearings has a little play. I can get the blade to track dead center on the top wheel but it tracks off a little on the bottom wheel. So far I have the cost of a blade invested. I can upgrade the motor and still be ahead of the game.

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          • #20
            Hey fredg50, give the Mark Duginske book, "Bandsaw Handbook" a look. There are plenty of fine tuning point that I wouldn't have come up with myself which give you the most bang for the bug out of your saw. With your no price purchase cost you can add tires, cool blocks, link belt and anything else without getting your costs out of hand. Personally, I'd get the fine tuning issues addressed before changing out motors unless the current one is totally trashed or dog-tired. The best thing I did for mine was balancing the wheels. I did far better with this than the factory did and the vibration reduced considerably
            Later,
            Chiz
            Later,
            Chiz
            https://www.ridgidforum.com/core/ima...lies/frown.pnghttps://www.ridgidforum.com/core/ima...es/redface.pnghttps://www.ridgidforum.com/core/ima...s/rolleyes.pnghttps://www.ridgidforum.com/core/ima...lies/smile.png

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            • #21
              I have a copy of the Bandsaw book. I'll have to check that one out. How do you determinethe size of the belt? The circumference of the belt on the saw is 53". I've seen a link belt advertised at 48". Do I have to by two and add the links I need or can you buy them by the foot?

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              • #22
                Originally posted by fredg50 View Post
                I have a copy of the Bandsaw book. I'll have to check that one out. How do you determinethe size of the belt? The circumference of the belt on the saw is 53". I've seen a link belt advertised at 48". Do I have to by two and add the links I need or can you buy them by the foot?
                You're going to like the book. There's something useful in nearly every chapter. I just finished removing the nicks from the back of the blade and rounding over the back edges to prevent cutting the bearing faces during tight turns.
                Later,
                Chiz
                https://www.ridgidforum.com/core/ima...lies/frown.pnghttps://www.ridgidforum.com/core/ima...es/redface.pnghttps://www.ridgidforum.com/core/ima...s/rolleyes.pnghttps://www.ridgidforum.com/core/ima...lies/smile.png

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                • #23
                  Chances are its a DeWalt knock off. Dewalt made the B&D Radial Arm Saw as well as the Band Saw. My dad had a B&D Radial arm saw when we were kids, first power saw I ever used; those things still give me the willies, although I haven't used one in a while.
                  Try Looking for info Here:http://www.owwm.com/
                  Ask around here:http://www.owwm.org/

                  Best regards, Barry

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                  • #24
                    I called a Dewalt service center and gave them the model and serial # of the saw and they told me it was obsolete and parts and manuals are no longer available. Anything I need I should be able to get aftermarket. Speaking of a RAS, this has been my lucky month for free tools. One of the guys at work gave me a old Craftsman RAS. I found out that the saw was made by Emerson and contacted them. There was a recall on a lot of their saws from the early seventies into the early nineties for the blade guard. I gave them the model and serial # and they sent me the updated guard assembly along witha a brand new table for free. They even sent the right manual for the saw which I did not have. The saw was made in 1978 and was used in a cabinet shop. I haven't had a chance to set it up yet. I here a lot of scary stories about these saws so I plan on doing a lot of research before I use it. Here is the link if anyone has a sears saw and wants to check on the recall.
                    http://www.emersontoolcompany.com/ Just go to legal and click on recall.

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                    • #25
                      Originally posted by fredg50 View Post
                      (<snip>)I here a lot of scary stories about these saws so I plan on doing a lot of research before I use it. (<snip>.
                      Bah! They are no more dangerous than any other machine with a sharp blade whirring at more than 1K rpm's. Seriously, all machinery is dangerous if used without the cautions common to all power tools as well as those peculicar to that specific machine. We all get into trouble when we get in a hurry and lose concentration on the task at hand; safely cutting a piece to proper length. Yep, read up and proceed as you would with any machine giving due respect for the potential dangers. BTW, I think you're going to love your RAS.

                      Later,
                      Chiz
                      Later,
                      Chiz
                      https://www.ridgidforum.com/core/ima...lies/frown.pnghttps://www.ridgidforum.com/core/ima...es/redface.pnghttps://www.ridgidforum.com/core/ima...s/rolleyes.pnghttps://www.ridgidforum.com/core/ima...lies/smile.png

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                      • #26
                        I'd say a BS is far safer than most saws. Any saw if not used correctly can remove body parts very quickly.
                        www.TheWoodCellar.com

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                        • #27
                          On Sunday I put together a new Sears 14" bandsaw. I bought it based on a review in American Woodworker and a conversation with a friend who had just bought one. The first thing I cut was a small piece of walnut on which I had drawn some squiggly lines. The thing did well. I have wanted to be able to resaw for a long time so the next thing I cut was a resaw of one inch wide from some 8/4 walnut 7" wide/tall. The cut was 12" long and the deviation from end to end and top to bottom was less than the width of one of the increment marks on my ruler. All this was with a 3/8 " blade that came with the saw. Based on my limited experience I anticipate great things to come from the saw.

                          I bought it on sale from Sears for $430.

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                          • #28
                            BS Riser Set

                            I also have the Ridgid 1401 (Gray one) and love it. If anyone is looking for a riser Kit for one, I have a brand new one , still in the box that I'm not going to ues. E-mail me at tes55@verizon.net if interested.

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                            • #29
                              I found the Ridgid to have vibration, but was able to quickly take care of it. I used a red link belt to replace the v-belt supplied, making sure to tension the belt fully. One other thing I do with bands saws and lathes is hang a bag of dry sand on the leg supports. The price is cheap enough and the saw is actually well rated by many mags.

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