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  • Bandsaw Comparison

    I am looking at buying a bandsaw and need some help. What's the best bang for the buck, the Ridgid or the Grizzly G0580? I do woodworking for a hobby and I am looking for the best deal for under $400. Also can anyone tell me why HD raised the Rigid jointer price $50? No one in the store seems to know.

  • #2
    I hope you have'nt bought the ridgid Band Saw. I have one and it has vibration. The Ridgid Warranty won't pay for onsite service. they expect me to carry it (like 150 lbs) to their service center. If you think yu can carry around a tool that is supposed to be a stationary tool, good luck. Imagine what you will do with a table saw that weighs like 350 lbs.

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    • #3
      DSSOKHEY, I'm curious, what tool manufacturers offer onsite service? I'm sure that its possible that some individual service centers may offer that service but I've never heard of a manufacturer offering it.

      fredg50, if you're dialed into just the two band saws you mentioned then the Ridgid would be my choice. The two saws are probably a wash when it comes to features and performance. The Ridgid can be purchased locally so you won't have to deal with any shipping damage or back order problems. If you would experience a service or warranty related problem, Ridgid has, inconviently for some, locally located service centers while Grizzly has none that I'm aware of. However, if you want to throw the Grizzly G0555 into the picture than Griz wins hands down.
      ================================================== ====
      All of us could take a lesson from the weather. It pays no attention to criticism.

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      • #4
        Sears offers onsite service for extra money, but you have to by a craftsman to get it.
        I have the ridgid BS and have no vibration problems. It is underpowered but I have better things to do with my money than spend $1100 + on a good BS.
        If you can find a BS for about the same price with more power I would consider that.
        Also, setup and adjustments on a BS are numerous and somewhat irritating, but they do affect performance and vibration dramatically. If you get the ridgid, the manual does a good job of getting the saw adjusted well. Also, get a good blade, it makes a difference.
        www.TheWoodCellar.com

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        • #5
          Food for thought here. I was talking to a salesman(of course), and he was pushing a 14" Delta that cost about $200-$300 more than the Ridgid, and he said that you can spend the money now on the Delta and get all the bells and whistles, better belts and tires, better OEM blade, deluxe guide blocks, and less setup, than buying the less expensive Ridgid/Grizzly/Craftsman and having to do all the upgrades to get it to the quality of the Delta.

          I don't know what to make of it.
          Last edited by Hector B; 09-06-2006, 09:49 PM.

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          • #6
            THat's $750 BS. I'd spend a little more and get a Rikon 18" 2hp BS. On sale they can be had for about $899.
            www.TheWoodCellar.com

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            • #7
              Originally posted by DSSOKHEY
              I hope you have'nt bought the ridgid Band Saw. I have one and it has vibration. The Ridgid Warranty won't pay for onsite service. they expect me to carry it (like 150 lbs) to their service center. If you think yu can carry around a tool that is supposed to be a stationary tool, good luck. Imagine what you will do with a table saw that weighs like 350 lbs.
              Check out the article in the October issue of Wood Magazine on getting the most out of your bandsaw. He uses the Ridgid bandsaw.

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              • #8
                Originally posted by Rafael
                THat's $750 BS. I'd spend a little more and get a Rikon 18" 2hp BS. On sale they can be had for about $899.
                I have not found many good reviews on the Delta bandsaws in the $400 range and really can't afford the $750 and up. There's a Grizzly store abuot 2 hours from me in PA and they are having there tent sale the end of the month. I might just take the ride and check it out.

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                • #9
                  FREDG, Thanks for the infor on wood magazine article. I wil try to find it in the library. But otherwise I have tuned my saw pretty well. I am sure the article in wood won't tell you how to remove the run out in the lower wheel and the pulley. and then talk about an out of balance lower wheel too. This is a manufacturing defect and can only be corrected by proper machining--or replacing with correct parts. The articles usually tell you how to set up the guide blocks and blade tension and replace the tires and v belt to a link belt.
                  I have heard mixed reviews about the grizzly. You could try ridgid and if it does'nt perform you can return it within 90 days. I procrastinated and now I am stuck with it. good luck

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                  • #10
                    Suffered similar vibration problems.

                    Originally posted by DSSOKHEY
                    FREDG, Thanks for the infor on wood magazine article. I wil try to find it in the library. But otherwise I have tuned my saw pretty well. I am sure the article in wood won't tell you how to remove the run out in the lower wheel and the pulley. and then talk about an out of balance lower wheel too. This is a manufacturing defect and can only be corrected by proper machining--or replacing with correct parts. The articles usually tell you how to set up the guide blocks and blade tension and replace the tires and v belt to a link belt.
                    I have heard mixed reviews about the grizzly. You could try ridgid and if it does'nt perform you can return it within 90 days. I procrastinated and now I am stuck with it. good luck
                    I bought my BS14002 (orange model) with a riser block and oem fence for a total of $369. Yes, I only paid $369. At the time they were clearing out the old grey stuff and gave me the BS14002 instead of the BS14001. I thought it was a good deal but the BS14002 had lots of vibration. I did a lot of tuning to balance the wheels, replaced the drive belt, replaced the wheel tires, replaced the blade (first thing I replaced), and more. The two most significant changes that helped were stiffening the base with a piece of plywood and replacing the wheels. I believe one of the original wheels were out of round. I think there were some serious QC problems. I don't know if that has changed. I probably spent an extra $100 over the initial purchase and the blades, not a big deal. It took me months to solve the problem though. That is what really bugged me. Oh, and dust collection is nearly nonexistant. I added a 4" port to the bottom door and it made a significant improvement. I think experiences have varied and it is hit or miss. It is a good saw if you get one without bugs or once you get the bugs out yourself.

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                    • #11
                      woodypa, try putting a cost to the process of debugging and you will find the machine is not worht it.

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                      • #12
                        I have a Grizzly (G0555). It is a great saw. Ball bearing guides, nice fence and the 1hp is plenty of power for me. I looked at the Ridgid BS, but the Grizzly band saws had more features.

                        Shipped right to my house for $69. Handed the driver a $10 and he wheeled it right into my garage.

                        My .02

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                        • #13
                          Fred,
                          I'm just saying I wouldn't spend $750 on a BS, at that point I'd save my money and get something much better.
                          My only complaint about the ridgid is it is underpowered.
                          www.TheWoodCellar.com

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                          • #14
                            Originally posted by DSSOKHEY
                            woodypa, try putting a cost to the process of debugging and you will find the machine is not worht it.
                            I agree. The actual work hours and duration it took to get there wasn't worth it for me. I don't get to spend hours a day in my shop. I just don't have the time. Spending it trying to fix something isn't worth it. Hindsight says I should of returned it once I noticed the problem. Everyone I asked said it is a simple fix, just.... Unfortunately, most everything I tried didn't work.

                            There is an article in Wood magazine that discusses maximizing bandsaw performance. They show a picture of a Ridgid bandsaw with some of the modifications I mentioned. There is a dust port in the lower wheel cover. There is a piece of plywood between of saw and its base. I was reading it in Walmart and didn't get a chance to digest all of it. Looked like a good article though.

                            I think they mentioned making sure the blade is tracking on center to get rid of drift. I don't know why more people don't mention this instead of recommending an adjustable fence. I have the OEM fence that doesn't adjust for drive and I never worried about it. Maybe I am missing something.

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                            • #15
                              Band saw vibratio

                              This is a post I wrote at the wooden boat bulletin board, concerning the issue of vibration. This has been my experience. Most people had told the poster to replace the bearings, I disagreed. These are some simple useful fixes for the vibration problems. Personally, I was leery of this saw, but the price was right and it's been very reliable. hope this helps, I hope it's not too off topic.
                              Barry


                              Bandsaw Vibration

                              I have the same saw, and had similar problems. I don't think it's the bearings.

                              Here are some fixes.

                              1) check your pulleys for alignment. Not the best castings and they some times slip on the shaft. I replaced mine with a matched pulley set. http://www.tufftooth.com/
                              2)Replace the drive belt with a link Belt (world of difference). Plus you can move the motor further back,and the lower door will open further for easier access
                              3)Replace the cheap rubber grommets on the motor. They pretty much are worthless. Go to a local auto parts store and purchase 4 shock absorber bushings(cheap item about $2.99 a pair and you can use the same hardware).
                              4) check the tension spring they sometimes become weaken and I know of a couple cases where the springs broke.
                              5) I put a shelf on the stand with 3/4 melamine from the local recycling depot, it really helped to stiffen it up. and gave me some storage. If you have a mobile base make sure it's bolted to the stand.
                              6) Do you have a Riser Block? make sure it's bolted tightly. I also used some rubber gasketing between the block and the base. It seemed to help.
                              7) check the wheel alignment. are they coplaner? you may need to shim one or both. Just some flat washers will do.
                              8)Check table and blade for squareness.
                              9) Check the guide support bar for squareness.

                              If you need wheel bearings, don't purchase from Ridgid parts you can get them much cheaper elsewhere.

                              All this being said it's a Ridgid and I still have some vibration, but nothing like before.
                              I bought my saw used for $200.00, so the pulleys and link belt didn't add much to the cost. I will say that It's a pretty good saw and I've resawn mahogany,spruce and some white oak with no problems. I go to it first for most cuts over the table saw, except ripping.

                              Hope this helps

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