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  • Need advice

    Hi all,
    I have TS2424 and really love it. It is tuned and square and passes the nickel test.
    I am new to woodworking and have designed and am ready to build a router station. The table top is 36" high and the station's foot print is 26" x 22".
    I am using 3/4" cabinet grade birch plywood for the carcass. I have all my material laid out (rough sizes) and am getting to cut to final sizes.
    I will be using dados for the shelves and mating corners.

    My concern is, I have 3 panels that are rather large (2 @ 1'-9 3/4" x 3'-4 7/8" & 1 @ 2'-2" x 3'-4 7/8"), and I am not sure if I am better off using a router to make the dados instead. I have been reviewing sled plans on the internet and have not really seen anything to handle panels these sizes.

    My questions are can I attach a fence extension to my Incra V27 (I think the bar may be short), or should I modify sled plans I have seen to accomodate the panels, or should I use my router with a guide?

    I do feel that there is to much room for error using the router with guide (having to remove/replace the guide for each piece) instead of doing a production run on the table saw.

    Any advice or recommendations would be greatly appreciated.
    (Cool! I still have 10 fingers!)

  • #2
    With only 14" or so from the front of the saw back to the blade, using a miter gauge wouldn't be the best choice for these cuts IMO. I would just use the fence for a guide if I were making those dado cuts with a TS.

    As far as using a router to make the cuts, if you have clamps that are long enough, just clamp all three pieces together and cut all three pieces at the same time.
    I decided to change calling the bathroom the "John" and renamed it the "Jim". I feel so much better saying I went to the Jim this morning.


    • #3
      I was planning on using the fence for the dados perpendicular to the narrow sides. It was the dados perpendicular to the 3'-4 7/8" sides I was really concerned about. I don't think the fence will go that far out from the blade.
      I do like the idea of laying the pieces in-line and routing them together. Probably safer to.
      Thanks Badger.
      Last edited by bird dog; 08-31-2006, 12:06 PM.
      (Cool! I still have 10 fingers!)


      • #4
        Maybe I am missing something here, but why not spin the piece 180 degrees and do the other side.?
        SSG, U.S. Army
        K.I.S.S., R.T.F.M.


        • #5
          I dadoed the sides of a 6' x 2 ' DVD cabinet on my table saw. To support the long pieces, I laid a piece of angle iron (actually, it was an old bed frame rail) on a couple saw horsesto the left of teh saw table and covered it with a piece of the slick clear packing tape to reduce friction. I put my fence on the right side as a guide and had a 4' table off the back to catch the piece as I fed it through. A 2 x 4 with the packing tape on it will support the work as an edge support while not causing a lot of friction to pull the piece out of alignment with the fence. I flipped the piece halfway through so I could work its full length.
          IMHO, the dado blade gave a cleaner cut (no tear-out, but I did make a ZCI for it) and I was able to make a 23/32 dado 5/16 deep in one pass. Moving the fence between passes was a lot simpler to me than reclamping, etc, using a router, which also would have required multiple passes. It also ensured both sides were the same, even if I was a tad bit off on the measurement.
          Wax your table top before you do large pieces to decrease the friction. Before the first cut, lower the blade below the table and slide the piece entirely across it to make sure you don't have any glitches.(like your outfeeed table too low which will cause the piece to rock up at the end of the cut and you miss cutting the last couple inches of dado DAMHIKT)
          Another thing with using this method, remember when you flip the piece end for end, your reference distance to the fence will be from the top of the dado, not the bottom, assuming you are starting with the bottom toward the fence.

          My $.02 worth

          Practicing at practical wood working


          • #6
            I do have a couple of rollers that I use for outfeedind longer pieces.
            I am planning to make an outfeed and left hand extension tables.
            Probably should have done those first. Live and learn.
            I am assuming that your dados were only 2'-0" long or did you dado the 6'-0" edge also.

            I have modified my design to a 2'-0" max. wide panel so I can use my fence to make the dado along the 3'-5" egde. As far as the dadosfor the shelves
            I'll rotate the piece 90 degrees and us the fence for a guide.

            Thanks for the input.

            Any suggestions for table extensions and outfeed tables? MDF, melamine or high pressure laminate?
            (Cool! I still have 10 fingers!)


            • #7
              Use a couple of c-clamps and a straight board to make a guide to ride the side of the table saw. That way you can cut your slots even when the fence does not have enough range.


              • #8
                I used the dado blade to rabbet the back edge of the 6' lengths, but did not cut any full dadoes that long. I put on a sacrificial wood fence and ran the dado blade up into the edge with 1/2" (1/32 deeper than the back thickness) clear of the fence, then pushed the side pieces thru with the back edge flush to the fence.

                As for an outfeed table, I use a 4' plastic-topped adjustable-height table I bought at Sam's Club. With the legs extended, it is 1/2" lower than my saw table. I slide a piece of 1/2" ply under the legs to level it up if I'm worried about a long piece rocking as it goes off the table. Its makeshift, but can fold up, and useable for a dozen other things, so works for me with my limited space.
                If you do a search on this forum for "outfeed table", it will bring up several threads with pictures of what others have made. Melamine coated MDF seemed to be a popular choice.
                I have the thought that some of this corrugated fiberglas/plastic like is used for shed roofs would give a good low-friction surface if supported right, but have not tried it.

                Hope this helps
                Practicing at practical wood working