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Jigsaw insert for table saw

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  • Jigsaw insert for table saw

    I'm new to the forum, also a new TS2400LS owner (two weeks ago, $449 at HD). I've been drawing up plans for router table insert, and pictures from other members on the forum as well as other info on the net have been extremely helpful. I'm also looking for insert for attaching my bosch jigsaw upside down in the router insert opening. Anybody got any ideas/pictures/tips/etc. that would help with the endeavor? Many thanks in advance. When I'm done with my router insert, I'll post pictures and my procedure (as long as I don't gank it up too bad - I'm fairly new to woodworking). Well, I enjoy reading the forum everyday for new and old info.

  • #2
    Rockler's got a plate to fit a jigsaw -
    http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=5767

    Personally the thought of this scares the "S" out of me, but if you build your wing and use their router plate the jigsaw plate will fit as well & it could be a cool function but buy GOOD blades and even BETTER saftey glases!

    Comment


    • #3
      Good safety tips

      Thanks for the link, and the safety tips. I actually got the idea for this from another forum member, and it sounded like good idea. Bosch used to carry a stationary jigsaw table, but I can't seem to find it now. Anyway, thanks again.

      Comment


      • #4
        Workbench magazine vol. 62 no.2 issue 294 (April 2006) has what you are looking for. It has a table saw extension for a jigsaw and/or router as well as an ocillating sander. You can order it through the back issues on their website

        www.workbenchmagazine.com

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        • #5
          Jig saw insert works well

          I have and am using the same set up your talking about on my TS2400. I've been using it for about 1/2 year or a bit more. I made my inserts (both router and jig saw) from 1/4" acrylic (3/8" would be better). Using the Rockler router and saw inserts would be better than home made, but costs more.

          I've got a Black & Decker jig saw and it does vibrate enough to jump the whole works out of the table when I'm not actually cutting something; the pressure of holding the work down and guiding it takes care of the problem when cutting. I suspect that a better quality saw, with a counter-balance, would minimize this problem.

          I did submit photos of my router insert to this forum some time last year. Its pretty simple, but works quite well.

          I like using the jig saw in the table better than free handing it. But that is probably because I don't have a lot of experience and time free handing the jig saw. I get smoother and better controlled cuts using the saw in this manner. Of course it is far better when cutting small or narrow pieces on which the saw would not balance well.

          Use good blades. So far the best I've found are the Bosch blades.
          Dick

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          • #6
            I have the jigsaw insert and have used it many times. Worked great, especially before I got a bandsaw.

            Right now I have it for sale as I built a new router table and the plate doesn't fit. Let me know if you want to purchase it. I can let it go pretty cheap.

            Michael

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            • #7
              Jigsaw insert continued

              Thanks for the speedy replies. By the way, this is a truly professional forum. I just signed up for another forum (woodworking-online) and they are lacking in the professionalism a bit. Just thought I'd mention that. Anyway, anyone have experience cutting phenolic (it's basically hardened plastic which woodpeck.com makes their router plates from). I have a woodpeck router plate, which is sized differently than the rockler. My choices are to either return the woodpeck plate and buy new router plate and jigsaw plate, or buy blank woodpeck phenolic insert and cut/drill as necessary to mount my jigsaw. So, any tips on cutting this hard plastic, and how easy is to do would be great. Also, for Dick L, what did you use to mount your jigsaw underneath your acrylic plate? And, what did you use for the brackets/clips for the table insert as a whole, and was it difficult to drill through the sides of the table and extension on the 2400. I can see the basic idea, but don't want to make a mess out of my new baby.

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              • #8
                Jigsaw insert

                For Ba-doyn, is your for sale jigsaw insert from rockler, or homemade, and do you have pics? How much are you willing to let it go for?

                Comment


                • #9
                  TS2400 Router/Jig Saw Insert

                  The router/jig saw insert rests on a set of 4 legs (feet?) that are bolted to the TS's top. These legs are pieces of angle iron. They are fastened to the TS's top with bolts through the side/edge of the top. Drilling the holes was easy; the top is aluminum, so a HSS drill works well in a hand held drill motor. I counter sunk and deburred the holes using a standard counter sink. The bolts are flat head machine screws, with the nuts located on the back side from the opening.

                  The B&D jig saw I have has 2 tapped holes at the forward end of its base plate. I used flat head machine screws through the insert to hold the front of the saw. At the rear of the saw there is no similar hole. There I used another machine screw, but with a nut, lock washer, and plain washer to capture the end of the base saw's plate. If I keep this jig saw, I may drill and tap a hole similar to those at the forward end of the saw.

                  If this isn't clear, let me know.
                  Dick

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                  • #10
                    Thanks again for the tips

                    Dick, thanks again for quick reply. I think it makes sense; won't know until I put the rubber to the road on it, though, but know where you are if I have further questions. Just in case, any way you could send submit some closeups of the jigsaw mount and the table mounts (angle irons). The better I can see, the less chance I'll screw up...

                    Dan

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Check this thread http://www.ridgidforum.com/forum/sho...ghlight=TS2400 (if this link doesn't get you there do a search on "TS2400" and look for the thread entitled "Router mounted to TS2400 Table", dated 9-28-05, in the "Ask Power Tool Experts".)

                      There are several photos of my router insert and another's insert. The clips show in at least 1 of the photos, plus the size I used is also listed in one of the responses.
                      Dick

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Leveling screws

                        Originally posted by Dick L
                        The router/jig saw insert rests on a set of 4 legs (feet?) that are bolted to the TS's top. These legs are pieces of angle iron. They are fastened to the TS's top with bolts through the side/edge of the top. Drilling the holes was easy; the top is aluminum, so a HSS drill works well in a hand held drill motor. I counter sunk and deburred the holes using a standard counter sink. The bolts are flat head machine screws, with the nuts located on the back side from the opening.

                        The B&D jig saw I have has 2 tapped holes at the forward end of its base plate. I used flat head machine screws through the insert to hold the front of the saw. At the rear of the saw there is no similar hole. There I used another machine screw, but with a nut, lock washer, and plain washer to capture the end of the base saw's plate. If I keep this jig saw, I may drill and tap a hole similar to those at the forward end of the saw.

                        If this isn't clear, let me know.
                        Dick, can you briefly explain what you use for leveling screws, and how they work? Pardon my pestering, just real new to this hobby, and anxious to learn and try...

                        Dan

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Don't Sweat the Pestering

                          I used 2" long #10-32 flat head machine screws for leveling screws. With the size angles I used these screws are pretty long. 1/4" or 5/16" would probably be better, but the #10's were handy (and are working fine). There are T-nuts in the router table/surface. I've now installed jam nuts under the T-nuts to fight the jig saw's vibration, they're not needed for the router. Think of these leveling screws as also being the legs that hold up the router table surface.

                          By the way there is another set of leveling screws used. They level the router and jig saw inserts. Those are just some short #6 flat head wood screws. I've installed 6 of these in the rabbeted area around the cut out for the inserts.

                          Some thing to keep in mind when locating the angle clips on the saw table is they need to miss each other when the saw table's extension is closed up.

                          I know where you're coming from. I'm quite new to this hobby as well. Of course being a retired engineer means I can count on my education and experience as an engineer to usually lead me into a more complicated way of doing things.
                          Dick

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                          • #14
                            Danimal,

                            Yeah, it's the Rockler one. It's been used only a few times and is in excellent shape. I'm thinking about $20 plus shipping. Where are you?

                            Michael

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              insert

                              Ba-doyn, well, I decided that I'm going to give this project a spin on my own before buying, but thanks for the offer, definitely a good price. Hopefully another newbie like me will want to take it off your hands.

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