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  • HELP!! TS2424 Set-up Issues

    I recently had to replace my arbor assembly (don't ask), which basically required a complete breakdown and reassembly of my table saw.

    I have used a dial indicator to check the blade squareness to the left miter slot and it is .001" front to back.

    The wings and table are flush at the front edges and as flush as possible at the top joints. However, the wings are slightly shorter in the back
    than the main table (the rear fence rails are shimmed at the ends to accomdodate these differences). The wings are also slightly higher (about a 1/32" - 1/64")
    at the outside edges as compared to the center of the table.

    The front rail has no shims. When I measure the between the ends of the front and rear rails the are equal on both the right and left ends.
    I have laid a 4 foot metal square across the front and rear rails. They both show no signs of being bowed in any direction.

    Up until now has been fun... but this is where I have begun to pull my hair out. I have spent the last 3 hours trying to square up my fence. !@#$%^&*... that about sums it up.

    I have tried the method as described in the manual and have not been satisfied with the resullts so I started to try it with the dial indicator at the left miter gauge and have had a hell of a time
    trying to keep it square. Everytime I seem to get it within .001"-.002" (favoring the exit end) and begin to ever so patiently to snug up the screws (alternating between them) the damn thing gets
    torqued out of position. I have tried this procedure with the fence not locked, locked, and positioned by clamps etc....

    In addition when things seem to be aligned, I'll reposition the fence, lock it and it appears to not keep the settings. I have checked the fence it does not seem to be bent
    (although when locked down the dial indicator shows a slight bow in the middle but more or less equal at the ends) nor does the tension rod.
    I have set the lock pressure (handle moves easy to locked position, only enogh pressure to keep fence in position) and rear clearances per the manual.

    What is generally considered as an acceptable flare at the exit end of the fence?

    I am desperate to solve this issue please help

    I have checked the table top for square and it checks out
    Last edited by bird dog; 09-20-2006, 08:17 AM.
    Kurt
    (Cool! I still have 10 fingers!)

  • #2
    It sounds to me like the holes for the bolts may not be quite big enough, and ride on the shank to throw it out of kilter when you tighten them. I would try removing the bolts completely and slightly enlarging the holes. When you remove the bolts, also check to make sure there isn't any trash between the pieces causing it to rock or skew when you tighten it.
    As for "allowable" difference, some people prefer to have the back of the fence a couple thousandths further from the blade to ensure no binding. This will cause binding if you should decide to put the fence on the other side of the blade. I prefer dead-on myself.

    Hope this helps

    Go
    Practicing at practical wood working

    Comment


    • #3
      Gofor,
      Thanks for the response.
      I am assuming that you mean the mounting holes for the rear fence rail.
      Correct? I would like to avoid drilling if Ican.
      I have remounted the rear rail and made some shims for the outer most mounting holes out of some plastic 3 ring binder covers.
      I couldn't ask for a better fit. I did this since I could not find any shim washers that were thin enough (approx. .010 - .015).
      I have aslo rasied the rear rail flush to the bottom of the miter slots. I also verified that the rear rail was flat throughout its length.
      I had to slightly push up the ends to accomplish this. This seems to have helped.
      I also have played with the tension lock on the fence and set it to the lowest point to prevent the fence from moving when locked.
      However, I have not yet been able to make the fence dead on. Right now it is around .003. I have also checked the fence out to 24"
      and it is holding around the same. I'll try some more tweaking tomorrow and do some test cuts. I have also mic'd the fence and it appears to be of
      consistant width, however when locked in position there is still a slight bow in the middle, only a couple of thou..
      Should I be concerned about this?
      Kurt
      (Cool! I still have 10 fingers!)

      Comment


      • #4
        Bird dog

        When I bought mine, I was cautioned on this website (and I think it addressed this in the manual) that if you ever secure the fence without applying backward pressure with the opposite hand to bring the fence in alignment with the rail you may possibly cause permanent damage. Is it possible that someone else may have damaged your fence by simply not being aware of the proper operation?

        Woodslayer

        Comment


        • #5
          Woodslayer,
          What do you mean by back pressure?
          Do you mean pushing the fence head tight to the front rail prior to locking?
          If so, I do that.
          Kurt
          (Cool! I still have 10 fingers!)

          Comment

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