My review

[dirtywhiteboy]

Re: My review

Has anyone else burned through the sanding pads that came with the multi tool head?

I am sanding a pretty detailed roller coaster body for painting, found this tool for the right price, then in two days, melted the hooks on every corner. I contacted Home Depot, but was told the only option for replacement was to purchase the 49.99 head for the unit. Kinda steep for 2 days work when I only need the sanding pad. Any suggestions?

Your doing to much work with the little thing If you going to do that much work you need a real sander, Festool makes a good one!

See now the thread is alive again

[CoffeeFiend]

Re: My review

Has anyone else burned through the sanding pads that came with the multi tool head?

I am sanding a pretty detailed roller coaster body for painting, found this tool for the right price, then in two days, melted the hooks on every corner. I contacted Home Depot, but was told the only option for replacement was to purchase the 49.99 head for the unit. Kinda steep for 2 days work when I only need the sanding pad. Any suggestions?

[OLD1]

Re: My review

Most of the time I'll use a drywall saw.The thought of using a circular saw scares the crap outta me ..No way .Sawzall yes but again very cautiously..With the drywall saw you can feel when you are contacting a pipe , wire , stud, etc...Have done the roto zip thing too..In an open job the dust is rediculous...I am thinking the multimax tool would do a much better job than all the above put together.Much better depth control

[PLUMBER RICK]

Re: My review

i try and use a sheet rock saw to allow me to cut a 45 bevel. this allows the drywall to be put back and taped without falling through. dry waller showed me this trick 25 years ago.

problem out here in california, i run into shear wall 1/2 the time and a small cordless circ saw set up for the right depth. 5/8'' + 3/8'' shear wall is simple to maintain with a little circ saw.

the dremel multi cutter works good and produces little dust with it's fine blade and little fan.

i also use a drywall cutout rotozip, but it blows lots of dust.

a sawzall is my last choice as the stroke can easily cut into romex and copper and plastic. holding at a steep angle is ok for drywall, but never fun for plywood.

remember the 6 square foot rule on lead painted walls.

rick.

[drtyhands]

Re: My review

Not that bad actually, I follow the saw with a shop vac as JC mentioned. Cleanup is about the same as a sawzall with no vacuum. I like the circular saw (now the job max) because you get a precise depth when cutting, no need to worry about cutting anything in the wall. Never tried JC's method of a backwards sawzall blade.

Holding the sawzall at a high degree of angle you can set your depth.If one thinks he's getting close he can finish to the stud by just manually sawing the power tool.Come over to the house before you leave town and I'll run a demo Be.
Got some drywall and 2X's we'll build wall simulation and you can watch the backside...The wall you silly F@ggits.

[BobsPlumbing]

Re: My review

Just a note. I don't mean cutting the wall with the backside of the blade. I mean putting the blade in upside down to decrease the angle for more control across joists and to prevent Sawzall "punch".

Make any sense?


J.C.

[gear junkie]

..........

[Bob D.]

Re: My review

Yes or I'll make the initial hole with a hammer then clean up the edge with a circular saw. How else would you cut a hole in drywall?

Use a sheetrock knife, very clean and easy to cut an access hole.

I just did it the other day to cut in an old work box to add an outlet in a room.

[drtyhands]

Re: My review

Love My Harbor freight $59.00 Multi tool. 2" blades only $10.00. I'm sure the Ridgid is a better tool,didn't know they made them.
My Son has a freud,Big $$$$ for tool and blades are crazy expensive! This style tool has It's place and is awesome!

Especially when the general doesn't know any better to remove plywood under granite,now the fixtures don't reach.
No longer a problem.I used to have to ruin a hole saw to try and drill notch out the material.

[drtyhands]

Re: My review

Do you seriously use a circular saw to cut drywall when you don't have a tool like this?

Could you imagine the cleanup.Fills the entire room with dust.A guy would have to plastic the customers property.
Sawzall W/aggressive metal blade is the only way for me.

[BobsPlumbing]

Re: My review

Yes or I'll make the initial hole with a hammer then clean up the edge with a circular saw. How else would you cut a hole in drywall?

Done it several ways. Probably some of the same ways you have.

Circular saw. Small shop vac running with the blade.
Reciprocating Saw. I do better with the blade turned over. Shop Vac too.
I have a RotoZip too that does well with a good bit. Have an attachment at the head where you hook the vacuum directly too. Keeps things pretty clean.


J.C.

[gear junkie]

..........

[dlarrivee]

Re: My review

Cut through the drywall like butter with less dust then a circular saw.

Do you seriously use a circular saw to cut drywall when you don't have a tool like this?

[PLUMBER RICK]

Re: My review

try the scraper blade when you have a toilet that's caulked that won't budge. i think the blade softens and melts the caulking. works great.

rick.

[toolaholic]

Re: My review

Love My Harbor freight $59.00 Multi tool. 2" blades only $10.00. I'm sure the Ridgid is a better tool,didn't know they made them.
My Son has a freud,Big $$$$ for tool and blades are crazy expensive! This style tool has It's place and is awesome!