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why does it have to be removed is the pip being used for food ,then use a food grade lube
No, nothing like that. I have a project I may be working on where the pressure for the threaded joints will be 800 psi. I've posted a few times and asked others opinions' about it here.
Anyway, removing the oil. I'll do most anything to gain a long-term performance advantage on joints. I doubt that the pipe dope manufacturers have taken into account any advantages or disadvantages the various oil residues their product comes in contact with in their testing procedures.
JC, i am sure you are also considering what affect any residue might have on the process fluid (is it breathable air in this case?). Sounds like that might be why you want to remove it all.
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I use lacquer thinner, which is a mix of non-polar solvents including alcohols, toluene, xylene and acetone and cuts nearly everything.
A chemist friend of mine likes MEK before applying adhesives which he swears leaves less residue. I've tried it, but still like lacquer thinner.
We started using lacquer thinner during final assembly when I was in the engine business, because it definitely attracts less grit than normal solvents (which are similar to mineral spirits). Plus, it dries very quickly.
If you need to clean something conveniently and quickly, you can use aerosol carburetor cleaner (Berryman's is good). Spray and let it drip dry, which only takes seconds. We used this out at the racetrack. Brake cleaner also works, but isn't quie as potent. With either, just don't make a habit of breathing it or getting your hands wet... hard on the liver.