I'm pretty sure the featherboard is not pinching the blade, first off, it doesn't look like it's getting pinched. I have it at least 2" ahead of the front of the blade. And it's not super tight anymore, I tried loosening it to see if that makes a difference, still no good. I have a copy of 'The Table Saw Book' on order in the hopes that I'll learn something useful.
In the meanwhile, I canceled my order for the LU83 blade because it'll take a month. There has to be a store around here that has one. I was considering the Woodworker II but got stuck in one of my "which one" loops.
The fence is lined up pretty well, though I should try and de-align it a little to make sure it opens up on the outfeed, I can always put it back. The splitter is aligned, though I might take it off to verify (safety be damned, it's attached to the blade guard, as you well know). As I indicated, even I suspect my feed method, but i won't mind having a new blade if that turns out to be the problem.
The edge doesn't look burned, really, it's just very rough and has those swirly kerf marks. But I'm quite new at this, I could be mistaken.
EDIT: to improve confusion
Last edited by jimmyswimmy; 02-05-2007 at 10:19 PM.
If you're interested in a top notch blade, I see you mentioned the Woodworker II, take a look at the Ridge Carbide TS2000 blades. They offer it in both a regular kerf and thin kerf. You can get an additional 10% off from that particular vendor if you type "woodnet10" in the coupon box. I won't go into a commercial about their service level but you won't be disappointed.
111,111,111 = 12,345,678,987, 654,321
jimmy, talk about great timing....see the posts in the general woodworking discussion in reference to the sale on Amazon.
Well, I'm not sure if it's in poor form to reply to my own reply, but I'll do it anyway. Those of you who suggested that the problem was the blade were absolutely correct. I replaced the garbage Ridgid blade with a brand new Freud blade, one of the glue-line rip versions, and obtained an absolutely BEAUTIFUL smooth cut. I'm delighted with its performance.
Now if only I didn't have the old arbor... but I'll probably never have an issue with it. And if I do, I'll just have a new one machined, maybe a little longer too.
Thanks to all who offered their advice. And thanks - sorta - to CheekyMonkeyWrench for pointing out the sale on Amazon. You saved me 25 bucks. On the other hand, you cost me $100 too, but I got some nice blades out of it...
"I'll just have a new one machined,"
Don't do that, contact RIDGID and request a replacement arbor. They should be available. They sent them out to those who asked for them a couple years ago when the arbor issues first surfaced.
Light is faster than sound. That's why some people seem really bright until you hear them speak.
“If I had my life to live over again, I'd be a plumber.” - Albert Einstein
"Its a table saw.... Do you know where your fingers are?"
Are you sure your saw has one of the bad arbors? The reason I ask is that the arbor problem was corrected in early 2005 and all saws made after May of that year had the corrected arbors. If you bought your saw last year, 2006, you more than likely don't have one of the bad arbors.
111,111,111 = 12,345,678,987, 654,321
Wow, I meant that as a sort of off-the-cuff comment, but it's nice to get some replies. Yeah, I read a bit about the arbor problem on here and looked at the helpful comparison picture someone posted (sorry, I have forgotten who it was). It is definitely the old arbor. I can sit a blade in that notch with a little room to slide it either way. At one point, before I started reading here, I thought that might have been my original problem with the rough cutting, but it wasn't, since there's still room up against the arbor. Oh yeah, and when I originally bought the saw, there was a LOT of dust on all the boxes, so it was probably lying around for some time at the Hoe Depot.
I had read that the Ridgid support folks wouldn't send them out anymore, and I don't relish removing this saw from my basement. If they'll send me a replacement, that would be great, otherwise I figured it wouldn't be too bad to mill a longer bolt - this way I could use the dial-a-dado blade I've heard so much good about. I'll just put it somewhere on that list of "things-to-do..."
I can't find any now, but there were a few posts several months ago stating that Ridgid will no longer send a replacement arbor to the owner and now require taking the complete saw to a service center. You may be able to order one, if you really wanted to. But that would be a little like adding insult to injury for me....
Glad you got your blade issue resolved at least.
Still enjoying all 10 fingers!