The latest thing around here is to put the kitchen sink in the middle of the house--no outside cleanout. Which means the roof or pull a toilet a third of the time. Day in and day out, roof or pull a toilet. Then there was that time I installed the cleanout, but it was 4' deep and ground water made it an all out nightmare. I don't like not having very firm bed under pipe, especially at 4'. (Lotta weight on it.) I'm constantly wondering how else to handle the pathetic situation of no outside full size cleanout. Thinking now about charging about 30% more for snaking through toilet. That is, charge to pull and reset the toilet, of course, but also charge quite a bit more to snake from the bathroom, because of liability. I'm quickly reaching the point where price needs to match liability, not just time or trouble. Easier to get stuck, I think, in the bathroom. Worse if you get stuck in the bathroom. Protect floor. Protect vanity. Protect walls. Protect tub. Protect carpet. Protect thresholds. Can't clean cable coming back out if don't clear it. All in all, it's more trouble, but more importantly, it's more liability. It all hit me one day when I pulled a toilet in a commercial bathroom. Floor drain, plenty of room, tile. A lot less liability. And therefore, they should pay less. Liability insurance, of course, is cheaper for commercial than residential. So maybe my competitors are about to get more inside the bathroom business.
Invest in same carpeted mats to lay on the bathroom floor so you can place the toilet and the machine ont there. Reason i say carpeted, they are more heavy duty then the sheets of plastic, and will lay flat.
Yeah, I may not be thinking straight, but compared with being set up at outside cleanout within five minutes, versus protecting door thresholds, floor to the bathroom, floor in the bathroom, vanity, tub, walls, door jamb, possibly damaging lead bend, plus having to head back out to drain the drum after it starts slinging, plus 10 or 15% of the time, have to remove the door--whew! if not charge more, then maybe give a discount for outside. Two or three times more work, and 10x (?) the liability.
I do cover the floor with drop cloth, then cardboard, then 6 mil plastic.
If I were ever to go flat rate, it would probably go something like this: how much time (now and cleanup back at the shop), how much liability, does it require highly specialized tools, and how bad do I not want to do it? And how hard is it going to be to convince them in a month that the whatever's going on now is not related to what I did? I don't know how others do it, but a flat rate schedule would not be based primarily on time.
I don't know, but it seems to me that a more equitable situation is one where the pay adjusts to make all jobs equally desirable. Time and materials alone doesn't accomplish this.
Feel free to bring me back down to reality. Won't be offended.
I would find out what the going rate is though. It would be like me charging double time on holidays when every other drain cleaning company advertises to extra charge on holidays...Who would be getting the calls? Thats all i was suggesting...You dont want to lose business
"Somewhere a Village is Missing Twelve Idiots!" - Casey Anthony
I never lost a cent on the jobs I didn't get!
all i need for an inside toilet snake job with carpeted bathroom is a 3' x 5' rubber carpet mat and a plastic cement mixing tray for the toilet.
the way you make it sound, it sounds like you're worried about the whole system exploding.
if the water level needs to be lowered, then pump it out. the bathroom that is carpeted is more risky than the tile or vinyl floor, but covering the walls, threshold and tub is extreme.
i would typically do it from the roof if i have a choice.
I've never snaked inside without splatter. I may be doing something wrong, it sounds like. I'll reevaluate all the precautions, but I will probably never get to where I don't strongly prefer outside to inside.
Are you using an open caged drum?
If you're getting that much water back in the drum, drill a hole in it and use aluminum tape for the cover; all those plugs won't hold because the cable pushes them out.
I go to Big Lots and buy up tons of those plastic drop cloths, you can usually hang one over the shower curtain, pop holes and hang the other over the light fixtures down, then one of the floor or where you need it most.
Drums in most cases you have at the most, 2-3' of cable out of the drum tops.
I'm at $235 on pulling toilets to clear a drain. If they want cheaper, call somebody else because those jobs SUCK and then you have the liability of a supply line, angle stop if it starts to leak through the packing and fill valve if it's served more than a few years. Otherwise you're setting yourself up for a leak, possibly the tank to bowl bolts if you aren't careful.
Last main I opened, I went through a floor drain.
Yes, I have sinned, but time was important, I rarely do it. 95% of my clogs never show any strain back to the motor.
That is very true out here in the south bay also craps
6 or 7 years ago, that would fly, I remember doing c/o's like mad, but now they just thank you for your time
Luckily,t here are some wise people still out there that understand the best cleaning your going to get will be from a c/o.
I was at an emergency call the other night, the neighbor happened to be stopped up also, well, her plumbers got the Spartan 100 stuck on the roof and left it over night
I cleared mine through the c/o in about 5 mins.