Re: TS3660 Table Alignment
I'll give you my opinion, but others may disagree:
First, front to back along the seam should be even between table and wing. If you have a noticeable difference, it may mark or scar the wood sliding over it. This is most important at the ends,(front and back) as a sharp corner or edge up will definitely mark your wood.
Second: my wings droop slightly (about .015 lower than the table at the outside edges). As this has never caused me a problem, I have never gone to the trouble to try and correct it. I would be concerned if they were higher than the table, as that would also cause the edge to score a wide piece of wood.
Third: Ah the elusive search for a straight edge! You will probably end up having to make one yourself, one method which involves ripping three boards, selecting an edge on each, and then matching the selected edges (sanding, planing, etc any high pots) until they all three each match the other two full length with no light shining through when held up to a bright light source (sunlight is best). To do this you need a table saw, which you haven't assembled yet. Right now, probably your best bet for a straight surface reference is the saw table itself. A good quality level is also usually fairly straight (mine wasn't which is why I said usually). When you get to edge gluing boards, you will probably want to take the trouble to find or make a truly straight edge.
If it were me, I would assemble the saw, getting them as close as I could for now, concentrating on getting the table to wing seam as smooth as possible. When you start using it, any problem areas will surface and then you can correct them as needed. A sign of too much droop would be not getting a square edge on a board that is wide enough to extend over the wing, but you do get a square edge with a narrower board.. Scoring, grooving or metal marks on a wide board would indicate the need to align the edges closer.
The items that are really critical on the set-up are aligning the blade to the miter slot; fence parallel to blade; blade being exactly 90 degrees to the table when set at 0 degrees (vertical), and aligning the splitter. If any of these are off, they will cause you problems with every cut. Ensuring these are correct is the first step in solving just about any other problem you will run into with cut quality.
Hope this helps, and enjoy that saw!!
Last edited by Gofor; 04-08-2008 at 07:37 PM.
Practicing at practical wood working