Chalk up another one who needs to learn....
You should never apply tape or thread sealant to compression or flare fittings.
A drop or two of machine oil on the threads is recommended by the manufacturer.
put the dope on the pipe, right in front of the ferrule.
when the ferrule tightens up, this makes sure the ferrule does it's job.
To you guys who use the compression stops exclusively, what do you use in applications such as under w/c's and pedestals where they are exposed? do they have extension tubes to "clean" them up I exclusively use the brasscraft sweat angle stops for pretty much all applications and have never ventured to try something else, but i dont think i would have my guys install these.
a hah, well i do see the cost savings with using them instead of the brasscrafts w/ extension tubes but id rather stick to the sweat style, less chance for call backs. I try not to be pennywise dollar foolish especially with materials
compression angle stops are the most popular stops out here.
ips/ threaded stops are more old school with gal pipe. although my buddy always did his re pipes with brass nipple stub outs.
compression stops should be lubed to cut the friction of tightening the nut.
i've installed tens of thousands during my run in new construction. it doesn't take force as i only used a 7'' long ratcheting flare nut wrench. the trick is to lube the compression thread which cuts the friction. i found that bowl wax was easy and clean. better than pipe dope.
make sure that the ferrule fits snug. it could be a production run issue.
i would think that it's a nut issue:eek: if the compression nut is not machined properly, the ferrule will not seat correctly and will crush, not seat.
there was a time that our laundry compression bibbs were a combination of compression, ips and sweat. what a piece of junk. the nuts would split as the thread was tapered on the valve.
99% of the stops i use are brasscraft. other than their stems being an issue with wearing, the compression has never been an issue.
and it's never been an issue using a ferrule puller to swap out years later to another brand of 1/4 turn. these used a slightly different thread.
need to stick with brasscraft as the nuts are interchangeable and don't require a swap.
Alright, first there's the "torque multiplier" and now a "ferrule puller". Where do I get one of those?
yeah ferrul puller tell us more master rick