What's the process for using plaster of paris?
Grout on concrete floors on toilets that have to really be shimmed up/raised
Caulk on regular applications for sanitary reasons so that spillage doesn't create odor/sanitary problems.
I always leave the very back uncaulked so when they plunge and blow the ring....it shows up immediately as a problem instead of days/weeks/months later when structural damage could occur.
I have to agree with service guy. I almost never use anything around the base of a toilet. Using caulk is just asking for something to discolor and mildew. On a ceramic floor if there is grout available in a matching color I might grout.
I used to think like that...
until I got a couple callbacks for "water on the floor"
and it was someone sloppily getting out of the tub, water around the base.....they think its instantly the plumber not doing his job.
I only use 100% silicone so discolor or mildew is not evident in my installs.
Besides, why do I care what user habits create in regards to looks when my job is to install the fixture without leakage :shrug:
There is job security to not caulking;
Kids or an old man with a prostate the size of a grapefruit makes a habit of missing the toilet......swears it's leaking even though the urine is so cheesed up you can slice it...and you pull the toilet knowing it's residual and then you caulk it.....making the homeowner think you fixed the problem.
You did....just wasn't the wax ring. :idea:
ALL TOILETS WILL BE SEALED!!!!
If you want to use silicone I'm just going to tell the home owner it's going to be an extra for my time to deal with the overkill,still no garauntees.More than likely I'm not going to get it all off the floor.
First thing the inspector will bust us on thereby preventing the homeowner receiving their Notice Of occupancy or signing off Final Inspection.
It is a cesspool for germs and bacteria to accumulate millimeters away from out of sight under there.
If the job is done right that toilet is not going to be removed for years till the homeowner desides it's time to upgrade to the times.
The time and obvious posibility of complications removing the sealant need to be communicated to customert and included in price.
this has been discussed time and time again.
every fixture needs to be caulked to the adjoining surface. period.
not only is it a code requirement. it is for health reasons. it also prevents the toilet from rocking and shifting.
if it's not caulked, it's not right. period.
don't let dog read this or he will chew your heads off:cool:
For those who like to leave a gap or not seal the water closet at all you need to consider why you seal fixtures to the wall or floor. It has noting to do with the bowl wax being bad and the caulking trapping the spilled water. It has everything to do with preventing water on the floor from getting under the fixture. Think about it now many times do you see a water-tight floor penetration at the closet flange? Now when the kids splash water out of the tub and the water on the floor gets under the water closet how do you mop the water up? My guess is you have never been called out to a house to pull a water closet so the owner can mop up a spill from the tub.
I do the same as Service Guy and Dunbar, Prefer not to caulk and if I do I leave the very back without. I believe if the wax ring were to leak the caulk would trap the water and eventually rot the floor.