Last edited by TOPDAWG; 02-24-2011 at 05:08 PM.
I am still staying quite busy as I can do drain cleaning, faucet repair/replacement, valve repair/replacement, installation and replacement of water treatment and water filter systems, main water service and waste lines.
Distractions are everywhere, don't lose sight of your dream.
Has anybody seen the nut break? I did a job for a manager who replaced an angle stop but left the old nut on and it broke and flooded an apt. Since then i've always replaced everything....
Its good plumbing practice to always install new supply stops , replacing nuts and ferrules while doing so.Many of the suggestions in thread are viable if no problem is encountered.My practice is to pull existing nut and ferrule with proper tool for this purpose.This should be easy if original nut was not over tightened compressing ferrule into pipe.If over tightened,pulling can be difficult ( i have many broken pullers, pulled apart while being used ) this can leave pipe under sized and hard to make leak proof joint.If pipe is undamaged a new valve can be installed after cleaning with sand cloth ,however if pipe is malformed cut back sufficient pipe to allow ferrule to bite at new place (your picture indicates this is possible)After cutting and cleaning apply light oil to valve while assembled lubing threads and ferrule (pipe dope can be used in a bind but oil is preferable, don't have time to explain but 40 years have proved this to be true)Tighten valve to pipe with adequate torque as both over and under tightening can be problematic.Always use quarter turn valves for replacement and don't forget to turn off water first!Also always inspect pipe with fingers for dents at area where ferrule grabs , although unlikely i have had it happen , a sizing tool can be used to reform either dented or undersized pipe .In best case scenario the fore going can be ignored but when these problems occur these suggestions can save aggravation.
Welcome to the Forum! Good info.
I prefer sweat stops. Tried them all.
Just noticed for myself no callbacks with sweat stops. You've got it or you don't and it shows pretty quick. (I know someones gonna post a horror story where one leaked a week later.) Don't have to worry about bad castings, weak nuts, bad ferrule, weaping, retightening.
Just found it works best for me.
A question for those who use compression stops What do you use when you have a pedestal installation?
I use brasscraft CS40B's (sleeved sweat stops) It makes it look nice to see all the chrome under the pedestal and toilet.