Am a bit of a philosopher. Can you put up with some opining from little-me?
=I am a mechanical natural talent, I guess, because I learned to take apart and put together pocket watches by age ten, and later was a world class concert piano technician to the stars...self trained, almost always.
=This sounds like hot air talkng. But as we used to say about Clara Rockmore, who was prima donna, and talked of her life's achievments,
"it ain't boasting when it's true."
=Now, every point you made is perfectly correct. You are right.
The manual is near useless. The unit is very, very well designed.
It is an assemblage, if you will say, of perhaps one of the world's best-reputation small engines (Subaru Robin series), married to a direct drive CAT brand pump. The Ridgid engineers designed the frame, cart, cosmetics, perhaps the wand, (probably not the latter) and put it all together,
got all this into the retail chain...and it works.
But, oh Lordy, very few big companies have PR people good at both writing for Real People like you or myself, nor do they know how to put over the basic info.
=T.A. Edison, paraphrased from memory,
"Nothing worthwhile works the very first time, all by itself,
just to please you. You have to make the blasted thing work!
= It's a super good PW for the money, perhaps the best on the market in terms of blast for the buck, and it will give a very long service life.
AGREED: they failed to explain that the little sticker must be peeled from the top of that big, red hex nut atop the blue-painted CAT brand pump.
That sticker is there to keep the CAT oil from leaking during the shipping process, and must be removed before service in order to allow the oil of the pump to expand as the pump HEATS during service (churned oil heats and increases in body.
The SIGHT GLASS shows this effect, of oil expansion.
TIP: fill a cat pump to just about the bottom of the red dot, and not much more. For it will "overfill" above the red dot when it's hot oil in there,
and this causes no harm, but to make more frictional heat in the pump;;;
but, the pump can and does withstand that natural heat; it is designed well!
TIP: Change that CAT oil after a half hour or so of no-load operation (no tip at the end of the hose, no "wand". FULL water supply to the machine.
Drain the clear, green-tinted CAT oil into a new, fresh shiny pie pan of the throw way kind. You will surely see turbidity and tiny "sparkles" if you aim a powerful flashlight right into the drained oil. Not good, but natural: those are "wear in products" generated by any sort of new machinery as this.
RUN IN the engine and pump for a half hour. Sparkles will be seen in the pie-pan oil catch drain pain. Now refill both pump and engine with the suitable oils. Run no load for a couple of hours (no wand on the end of the PRESSURE hose, but full water supply to the Robin engine.
You may surely apply the wand (must turn off the engine and turn off the garden supply to do this, and do some cleaning. A wide spray fan nozzel puts the least "load" on the engine and pump; a RBTN is boss and easiest of all on pump and engine and fuel life;
not that being under HARD STATIC PRESSURE harm the two main units, but...better during break in to just baby your new baby. It will last ten years even if you merely follow manf. instructions.
=Oil is cheap and it is biodgradeable by bacteria in the soil.
Disposal of small amount of used oil, Damn the EPA: Just fling the oil (partial quart is all it is) into the soil, where-ever. The buggies in the dirt will thank you for the free meal. Don't pour ten gallons of old motor oil into a single spot: you'll likely infect the ground water supply of your neighbors to some extent.
=This is a lecture to be continued. I don't like to come off as a know-it-all.
I don't know it all, at all!
But I do know small engines and pumps and seals and metals and lubricaton theory.
It is a great good to NOT wait "20" hours" for the first engine oil change.
Change it instead at thirty minutes, and then at 20 hour intervals, or sooner, until the pie-plate-bright light test show practically no "sparklies"
Same with the CAT Pump Oil. I am going to make a guinea pig test of my own pump. If I spoil it, so be it. I will NOT use "genuine CAT brand oil next change-over. I will use Mobil One synthetic. WHY? Because that stuff, synthetic is ALL oil, so to speak, very slippery. SAE 20 or maybe 30 for the pump. I think I will go for the "SAE 0-20".
DID THIS STUNT with the former, terrible DEC cleaner. NO failure of its inferior, wobble plate pump. NO generation of metallic wear products.
Summary: Oil should be changed as often as you owndes have the desire to do so. Fresh oil never hurt a pump or engine. It's the METAL LADEN oil, that wears these things, period.
So, oil is cheap and drain plugs accessible: I will be changing my CAT PUMP oil and ROBIN oil at about 20 hour intervals for as long as it takes until NO "sparklies" or turbididy of note, ever appear in the CAT Oil.
I choose now to use MOBIL ONE in the Cat Pump. Let me be the guinea pig? Don't do this unless you, too, are an avocational lubrication engineer?
New video showing new tiny digicam and a mostly cleaned roof,
and a sealed chimney. Today, in result of that sunshine, My "SLE"
has, as predicted, re-activated. I am too weak to even think of pulling
that Robin engine's start cord. Darned thing starts on the first pull, usuallyu without even any choke. Have over one hundred hours on the machine. Expect a thousand or five thousand hours before some breakdown occurs.
RBTN rulz (). Y'all get one. Don't puncture your bare feet.
I work bare foot on the roof in order to not break brittle tiles nor slip.
Video. Mr. Hot Foot. Clean green roof: