I have two questions.... Anybody tried to find carbide knives for the 0610 Jointer ??? I am really getting into some of the South American hardwoods and some of them are VERY hard......
Also, I just put together a TS-1400 Bandsaw and went thru the alignment procedure, (per the manual). Everything seems to be set properly, but when I tried to cut a piece of wood to test it out, the blade wants to pull hard to the left. I dinked around with the guide blocks and the back blade support bearing, but to no avail. I have the standard, factory supplied, 3/8" blade in it, tensions to the 3/8" blade setting. If I try to center the blade on the wheel, it rubbs on the blade cover insert, so the blade is a little out of center..... HELP !!!
Glad to see you are having fun with your tools. Do a search for BS1400; you will find a surplus of information on the saw. I believe the consensus on this board is to put a better, new blade on the bandsaw as soon as you can. This should reduce your blade drift considerably.
I haven't used carbide blades in the jointer, but I do work with Ipe' often. I do keep a clean edge on my steel using the "scary sharp" method and don't have many problems - at least none I can blame on dull blades.
first thing you want to do is run your fingers up the teeth on the blade(with machine off of course). If it doesn't feel, sharp you'll need a new blade for starters. Replace the blade, then draw back both upper and lower bearing guides and draw back both upper and lower cool blocks. After doing so set to the proper tension and centre the blade on the tire. Once the blade is centred you can adjust the bearing guides by manually turning the wheel and slowly bring the bearing guide forward just until it starts to spin then stop. Do the same for the lower bearing guide at this time. Setting the cool blocks is simple. They are to be set just behind the gullet of the teeth. Squeeze them together and release them. That's where they should be set . Too far apart and your blade will wander sideways. Also, if the cool blocks are set too far forward they will dull your blade and it will have a tendancy to pull to one side. Hope this helps you out.
All blades will drift . Do a search and you will see how to adjust for that. Each blade will be different, so you will have to adjust your fence for each one. Also, when you replace the factory POS blade, be sure and follow the blade manufacturers instructions for tensioning. It also might keep you from having one come apart while you are trying to make a cut. Good luck and enjoy.
There's a good article in the latest FWW about bandsaw tuning my Michael Fortune. Unlike Duginske, who recommends coplaner tracking whenever possible, Fortune recommends adjusting the upper wheel tracking so that it tracks to the center of the wheel as a way to do away with blade drift and not have to adjust the fence. I intend to try this myself as soon as I get a 1/2" blade (currently using a 3/4" Delta). He also recommends lower tension.
You may need to sand the tires somewhat to get center tracking with wider blades. Fortune recommends a 3 TPI 1/2" blade for general use.
I just got this band saw and i experienced the exact same problem. The blade that came with my Ridgid band saw was TRASH! Throw it away and get a real blade. The results will be night and day!
I went back to home depot and they gave me a replacement blade for free.
There are two problems that it could be...
First is the bad blades most companies put on their saws from the factory.
Second could be the tracking on the wheels. I know it may look centered, but experiment a bit with the blade on different places on the wheel and give it a try. Mhen some blades move to the left or right, it is a tracking problem.