I couldn't find anything in the UPC or IMC about it.
the heaters are clearly marked for 125 degrees for both safety/ scalding and energy savings.
that's kinda what i've always thought...
although i've had customers ask that I turn it up a little
this guy was saying that it had to be 135+ and then have a thermostatic mix valve
It didn't seem right to me, but I didn't wanna get thrown outta the class arguing with him
I've heard that for IPC, I loaned my book to a coworker so I can't check. Anyone have a copy handy?
we're using UPC 2006 here... the guy who was saying this stuff was a local guy
It's an interesting issue though. I would not want to expose people to bacteria, but I also think that if it were a genuine issue, there would be more talk about it.
The problem I find with requiring a mix valve is the high failure rate.
The thermostatic ones frequently fail within less than 5 years.
the last thermostatic valve I installed was 3/4" symmons I think. and my cost was about $460, Not something my customers will be very happy about a high failure rate on.
A few years ago, I took out a water heater that had an old mercury switch on it. Don't even ask how old it was...because I don't know.
All I know is..it had some type of concrete shell, and I had to pull it out of the basement with my truck.
The Rheem delivery guy was so impressed with it..it sat in their warehouse for months for W/H classes to see.