I just recently purchased the new 3612 with a Forrest WWII to further enhance the experience
after having used a entry-level Skil 3400 for most of my early, formative woodworking and all I can say is DAMN! I never realized that joining case corners involved no light seeping through. [img]tongue.gif[/img] .
The only problem I'm having is that I constantly try to get the splitter aligned with the blade, using straight edges. However, I'm still burning the wood some and instead of me cutting through without affecting the feed rate, the piece runs into the splitter. Any suggestions for correcting this and keeping it correct?
Is the splitter square to the table?
I went outside after I wrote this and tinkered with it some more. It was square with the table top, but not in line with the blade. I had to adjust the two bolts that holds the splitter in line with the blade so the splitter wasn't angled. I then loosened the 5/32" allen screw and slid the whole splitter over until in sight with the blade and tightened the screw.
A few cuts proved to be pretty fluid without any burning.
So far so good. Thanks [img]smile.gif[/img]
Congratulations on the purchase of your new saw Patrick!
Make sure the blade AND the fence are square to the miter tracks. Sounds like this my be part of the problem.
If you are ripping and not cross cutting, the FWWII will burn some, any combo blade will.
A tip I used to align my spliter:
Take 2 strips of hardwood, straight and unwarped, and place one on either side of the blade and spliter. Clamp them together in front of the blade, behind the spiter, and just snug a clamp between the blade and spliter. Then tighten the spliter bolts.
Hope this helps, good luck.
As for the burning, the Forrest does seem to burn wood easier... but I just love the clean cuts! I recently got a $5 dial indicator gage from Harbor Freight to realign my blade and fence, this has helped significantly with the burning. My blade and fence weren't too out-of-wack before but now are near dead-on.