I never had to cut lead with that much sticking through, so I'm sure a sawzall with a metal blade would work. Someone else will have to chime in on that one.
However, if you want to be old school, I would put down a brass flange that I pretinned, peen the lead over the flange and then solder the lead to the flange. It's been at least a decade since I did it, but I prefer a waterproof joint. Make sure you wash off all the flux after you do this.
If the lead bend is essentially new and unused I would consider doing the latter if you're good at soldering and enjoy a project.
you said this room was roughed is some time ago ,how long ago .
i did not they still used lead any more ,do they ?
geno gardner.. please see post 6 above. no form of plastic is permitted in my municipality for either potable water or DWV. the lead bend is joined by a SS banded coupling to CI and is under a tiled platform so it is absolutely inaccessible without tearing up the tile, subfloor, etc. since the best the plumbing inspector will allow is to replace the lead with CI, there's little to gain,as far as i can see, to changing what the plumber roughed in. i believe he went with the lead as we weren't absolutley sure what the finished flloor height would be. apparently, with the lead, i can easily cut it to the height needed.
HVAC HAWK...the rough in is probably 4-5 years old and the house is around 90 years old. the project has been interrupted many times. as the rough in plumber is a family friend, i suspect, as noted above, that he chose the lead because we weren't sure what the finished floor height would be.
i'm actually pretty enthusiastic about the lead. it seems to be a good material for this particular application and, if connected to the brass closet flange correctly, should see decades of problem free use.
Finer, sounds like peening the lead over is the way to go in your application.
Cast iron and lead installs can last for century if done well. I have little doubt that plastic will need replacement well before that.
Just make sure the brass flange is anchored down to the floor good or you will have problems for sure
I've been cutting lead flashing with a utility knife or tin snips for about 48 Years. Most of our roof flashings back east were lead. I still buy and use it out west.
my attitude is, since the PI has to approve the rough in and the install, i just do what he wants done. helps eliminate of load of grief.