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Last edited by Ronald; 03-23-2011 at 02:45 PM. Reason: spelling
Here is what is being installed. Anybody ever use or have any info on it, good or bad? Is it PEX or just regular PE, if there is a difference. Thanks, Ron
If you are not aware...size does matter!
1" PEX for your run should work fine, measure the inside diameter
it won't be 1"
That's the reason why your plumber said no to 3/4" PEX as it's not 3/4"
I have recently [less than 5 years] re-plumbed with WISBRO-PEX
I ran 1" from the meter to a manifold system then 3/4" to all
water fixtures then stubbed out to 1/2" copper and attached all fixtures
from the toilet to the kitchen sink and more!
We have never experienced any problems. It did take about two
to three weeks to wash out the PEX waxy plastic odor/taste.
When in the shower and someone flushes....no more screaming when the
All PEX is protected from UV and sunlight! The supply PEX from the water meter
is underground and is stubbed to 1" copper when above ground going into the house
and then re-stubbed back to PEX inside the wall.
If you're running the plumbing in the attic I strongly suggest you add pipe insulation
to both the hot and cold runs, the foam style is fine.
Hello Castus Man
Appreciate the info. It will only be from the meter to the house. It will be sleeved ( I know not required, but for piece of mind and ease of replacement, I opted for it.) The line from the meter to teh house is all underground and enters throught the base wall. 30 inch below ground line. The line will enter in the basement which is heated. Once it enters, it will be connected to the existing CPVC. All is already insulated.
I realize I'm jumping in a bit late here, (Hopefully you're done with this by now) but....
If I understood the original question you are going From the meter, into the house about 90Ft away.
If this is a residential meter, the connection to the meter will be either 3/4" or sometimes even 1/2" PT. If thats the case I would go with the 100' roll of Pex at $33 with a $6 connector at each end and get this job done. The Meter should be in a Pit or otherwise unexposed so that connection will not be underground, and I assume the connection to the house is also above ground. Protect with sand as mentioned above, and protect from freezing at both ends where it comes above the freeze line.
Just my opinion.
Will be done next week. I can't believe it has taken this long either!
Yes the meter is in a box. I had them install a second box and connect a 3/4 brass ball valve so I would have access to turn the water off. I know the meter has a shut off valve, but did not want to be messing with the city meter.Once it leaves the box, the line is comletely underground where it enter the basement. Nothing is above ground.
Ronald, the pipe in pic is Polyethylene (PE) rated for 200 PSI.
Thats my 2nd best choice for Water Service, copper being the first and most $$$$$.
PE is a better choice than PEX for water service, it has a higher pressure rating than PEX.
I never run PEX for Water Service ( meter to house )
Do you tell youre Plumber that you get all your info from a plumbing forum?
I tell them I did research on materials I would like to have installed. I do find that if I show that I am knowledgeable on the subject, things go a little better. Ron
Pex is installed under slabs.....its fine to install underground and I've done it for years without trouble. 20' pvc sch 40 bell end is fine also.....and I've used it without issue but have repaired many broken male and female adapters. PVC threaded fittings have 1/2 the pressure rating as the pipe and is de-rated accordingly. I've replaced countless water services with 20' bell end pvc and I have NEVER had a solvent weld joint leak on a new service. The installer can make all the difference in the world. We do not make joints under concrete slabs here on any type of potable water pipe unless its brazed coppa.