I recently ruined a cut because I "assumed."
Turns out that on a TS3612 the process for zeroing the fence to to tape on the front fence gude sets the zero to the right side of the blade (duh.) That's fine, but my mental set says that I want the kerf & waste to be left of the zero. I wound up by moving to 18" and using a metal rule to set 18" by eyeballing the rightmost tooth on the rule. Within the 1/32" inch or so of accuracy I can get by that method, that's fine. If I want more precision, it really isn't.
It also leaves me up in the air if a I need to run a dado set because the right edge is now totally wrong and the left edge is now in doubt.
How do you guys handle this problem? At least, I perceive it to be a problem.
Thanks for any help, Curt
I adjust my ruler by locking the fence and ripping a piece and measuring it with calipers to get within a few thousands. Then I adjust the fence and relock and cut until the width of the piece is exact to 1/32, or an 1/8, or 1/4, etc. Then, with the fence still locked in place, I adjust the indicator on the fence to match the width of the last cut. Of course a thin kerf, or dado blade will change the width of cut, but if needed the adjustment does not take long, just don't forget to reset it when you go back to your usual blade.
Not only changing from standard to thin kerf. Different blades have different amounts of plate clearance, so changing blades of any sort can invalidate the cursor if you're picky enough (I am).
The answer to what to do when using a dado set is, measure from blade to fence. Trying to figure a compensation factor and remember it is a loser idea, at least for me.
I never pay any attention to the fence scale. I have a 24" Lufkin scale that I bought in the 50s, when I was a modeler at Studebaker, has .01" graduations. I measure every cut, why take a chance?
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