Sounds like a drum machine :rolleyesold:
I like speed for running sectional cables :)
I sure do miss sitting on my bucket since I started using the timberwolf. but that's about it. It is so much easier on me physically than the drum or the sectional. Today I'm going to modify my chuck adaptor so the cable doesn't lock in if one side is used. I'll have it lock only if I need reverse. that will eliminate fumbleing around to unhook the drill.
Sounds like the eel pin type connectors. Mine are g connectors and when ben came out to help on a large 34 unit snaking job, he prefered my g connector over his eel connector.
Just be careful when keeping things unlocked. When I build up massive torque, my timberwolf will spin backwards at high speed when I let off the trigger. If its not locked the cable will come off and potentially down the cleanout it goes.
DO NOT use a Timberwolf drill to do this as the torque build-up can actually injure you especially if you are not experienced with this technique.
The drill to use is the Dewalt DWD460K Here is the link: http://www.dewalt.com/tools/drills-1...s-dwd460k.aspx
It is a better drill all the way around and will help keep you from getting hurt:-)
truthfully, a drill is a buyer/ user beware tool. everyone doing drain cleaning with a drill takes a risk.
but like anything else, with hands on experience, you reduce that risk.
I prefer the longer drill of the timberwolf as it fits in my arms and against my body and gives me more leverage than a more compact drill.
my clutch has never engaged on the timberwolf. even when I torque the cable up to make the drill spin backwards at super high speed.
300 rpms gives me lots of time to react to the cable bind and torque. I use torque to my advantage. I also use 4' sections when the going gets tough. 10' of free unrestrained cable is asking for a headache. 4' when needed is the torque monster.
once again, of all the drills I've tried, the timberwolf fits me the best. I guess I could try out my 20 amp coring drills, or gas coring drill. but power is not the factor. the drill has plenty of it. it's feeling and watching the torque of the cables. more cables, more time to react and allow the torque to build up. less cable, less time.
live and learn or die trying. it's not for the faint of heart.
but then again, most equipment not designed for the task is do it at your own risk.
But that 4' section is like a garage door spring. Keep it straight and it will drill through anything.
Like anything else, the more you play, the better you get.