First, I want to add my appreciation to everyone contributing to this site - the information was invaluable as I assembled my new TS3660 yesterday. So here is my observation/experience. This is my first table saw, and I couldn't be happier with the decision, so far. Had to call around to 3 states and drive two hours to find one - but what a price - $399!
Took me about 7 hours to assemble - but I was trying to be incredibly cautious - and kept checking back to this forum. It was a great experience between the book and forum there were almost no trip ups.
I worked by myself, so I flipped the saw over before attaching the wings, and I installed the lift system before flipping. I think that this is the way to go - once I flipped the saw, I checked the lift and everything was perfect -- what a great system. My only tip here is if this is what you plan to do, don't tighten all of the leg assembly bolts before you install the lift - I had to loosen every bolt to get the lift to fit - so if you plan this course - just leave everything hand tight and snug it up once the lift is on. I also used a couple of props to hold up the lift pieces while placing the loose connecting bolts to the frame - made that process much easier.
Once righted, I used 2x4s as support for installing the wings -- I clamped one under the front of the saw table, and one on top of the rear saw table. this actually gave me a pretty easy installation - I did pop the center bolts through the wings before butting to the table, and that was helpful also (direct from the forum).
I did get a little tripped up setting the belt tension, but found the tips in this forum to get it right. Those tips were just buried a little deeper in the thread. Great stuff.
Fired right up the first time, and has been great.
A few questions - as again, this is my first table saw.
The saw came extremely well set up and aligned out of the box - I am only aligning it with a combo square right now - but it is dead on for parallelism, only a minor adjustment to the rip fence - rails are great - miter gauge is pretty good - saw seems dead on. My question is - the manual indicated that there should be at least a 1/8" gap between the saw and the left (from the front) edge of the insert. Mine is exactly 1/8". Should I be concerned since it is that close for the future?
Also - the splitter worries me - it just doesn't seem straight, and actually seems wider than the blade. I want to use the safety equipment, should i get a standard kerf blade?
Thanks again for the fantastic information - you guys are top-notch! So, what do I add next? Router table extension? Outfeed table?
The splitter vs blade width thing is a known issue. There is a thread around here somewhere about it.......best advice is to get a new blade, or call Ridgid and make them send you a replacement. Since the OEM blade isnt the greatest, you might be better off buying a good full kerf such as the Forrest WWII.
Im debating the router table myself, I have a router cabinet right now but would love to save the room if I dont lose functionality.
As far as the outfeed table, I have a rolling "cabinet" that has a flat top that can be raised or lowered. When I have large goods going thru the TS I use that.......its not as nice or large as a dedicated outfeed table, but its very multipurpose (my planer is sitting inside the cabinet right now........makes a good amount of weight to hold it down when feeding stock over it ).
As for the insert and the 1/8" measurement: That measurement is to ensure that the blade does not contact the insert when it is beveled over to the maximum 45 degrees. Mine was a little under, but I still had plenty of clearance. As long as you can fully bevel the blade without it hitting, you are fine. If it hits, (which I doubt it will as you say you have the 1/8" clearance) you will have to loosen all the trunnion bolts and slide the trunnion to the right, which will mean setting up parallelism, etc all over again (i.e. Not something to do unless you have to).
If you find you have to move the trunnion to the right, I would advise slightly beveling the blade (about 5 degrees), before doing it. That makes it a lot easier to move right. Also, after loosening the bolts and before sliding, reset the micro-adjust lever to center. That way you have a full left-to-right adjustment available after you snug down the trunnion. Reset the blade to vertical to make your final alignment adjustments.
If you make ZCIs (zero clearance inserts), the 1/8" is moot unless you still plan to use the original insert for bevel cuts (many do).
Practicing at practical wood working
Well, I've got my 3660 saw up to the point of the assembly of the mobile base, and am running into a problem. The saw is still inverted..i.e., I haven't righted the saw rightside up yet as I planned on righting it after the base installation as has been recommended here.
I have assembled the upper and lower lift assemblies, and installed the leg brackets. The leg brackets are firmly affixed, but I left a little play in the upper and lower lift assemblies to allow for some flexibiliy.
When I go to install the upper and lower assemblies, BOTH of them are too wide to allow the holes in each / either to match up with the holes in the leg brackets. (they're off between a 1/4" and a 1/2"). I have checked and rechecked and re-rechecked that the correct tubes were used in the assembly of both the upper and lower base and that the tubes were correctly oriented.
I swear that I remembered seeing in this thread that someone else might have had a problem with the holes not aligning also, but I have read through this thread again and didn't see that post.
I can easily post photos if it can help someone to visualize the problem.
I haven't read anything here that gives me the indication that sometimes the "machining can be off" yet, as I mentioned, I've verified (and asked my wife to do the same...she's a sharp cookie!) that the sub assemblies and leg assemblies are correct.
Has anyone else run into this and know of a solution?
Thank you in advance!!
Yep, had exactly the same issue and thought "WTF!!".
The answer is to slacken the bolts securing the side panels to the legs, and presto, it all fits. Retighten and you are done. You may need the saw to be upright for the weight of it to make sure everything splays out to make it fit.
Please do so so that others in the future will know what the problem was.I can easily post photos if it can help someone to visualize the problem.
Light is faster than sound. That's why some people seem really bright until you hear them speak.
“If I had my life to live over again, I'd be a plumber.” - Albert Einstein
"Its a table saw.... Do you know where your fingers are?"
First, I want to thank everybody for their valuable input. It made the assembly process a lot less painful.
Now here are some things I learned:
1. After assembling the base I assembled the Herc-u-lift. It was easier to wrestle without the saw. However, having the weight of the saw is a good test.
2. After assembling the base/legs I positioned the saw directly on top of the base. No need to perform the dreaded right-side-up act. Then I attached the extensions using sawhorses and clamps
3. When finalizing the rails, make sure they do NOT interfere with the miter slots. When I went to make my first test cut, the miter guage stopped half way! The rear rail was a little too high. Now I have to go reset the rail. Doh!!!
4. Read the belt tensioning process a few dozen times. Eventually, it will make sense.
Thanks again for everybody's input!
Got my 3650 home yesterday... and compared to anything else I saw over the last few months near the price, this is a FAR better piece of equipment. Didn't hurt at all that the local HD manager took another 80 off the 399 clearance price. This is my first table saw... and I suspect I'm gonna like it a lot more than the $300 toy I saw at Sears. It also looks like a much better deal than the $550 Hitachi I saw at Lowes.
I have assembled as far as base/top/sides/rails/Herculift, and expect alignment to be a LOT easier with the hints I found here.
Yeah, the manual still leaves a LOT to be desired.
On the Herculift: manual says to assemble the upper and lower sections with nuts 'finger tight'... this is far too much slop. I tightened them moderate tight with a wrench, then loosened all so the assemblies would move around a tiny bit when attaching to the legs. This allowed the bolts attaching the assemblies to the legs to fit into them, with a bit of wiggling. After all corners were attached, I jiggled the front and rear assemblies side to side until the latch was centered with the u-bolt and the saw legs, then tightened all nuts on the herculift assemblies and the casters.
I made the bolts at the legs too tight, will be loosening them until just at the ends of the threads. Hopefully this will allow more travel of the Herculift from 'down' to 'up'. My garage floor isn't all that level, and I need the clearace.
Can't wait to get it all aligned and start on the projects I have in mind.
I have just purchased a new TS-3650 saw. I used this site a lot to help in my assembly and want to thank everyone for such detailed and insightful instructions. They were incredibly helpful and saved me a lot of headaches. This is my first table saw, aftyer using a DeWalt radial arm saw I inherited from my father. This is such a quality piece of equipment, and will last me forever. Thanks again to all who have participated in this wonderful forum. Have only made a couple of test cuts and they are excellent.