Having seen some of the tart replies on this site, I almost hesitate to post this, but I feel its best to bite the bullet:
Yeaterday I did something stupid. Having been out of the finer table-saw work for about 10 years, a recent move gave me the incentive (need new furniture) and the time to get back into something I really enjoyed. I started by purchasing a new saw (TS3650) and am in the process of making my jigs, featherboards, inserts,etc. For the inserts, I wanted to resaw some boards to 1/2", so I set it all up and decided to run a scrap piece through to check my set. About halfway through the first cut, the blade started making some major whining noises, the piece got hard to push, and the smell of hot lumber made its way out of the shopvac.
That's when I did the smart thing: I shut off the saw. When I pulled the piece of wood off the blade, the blade wobbled (I thought it had loosened from the stress). I also noticed that the cut had taking a turn from straight (toward the fence). I removed the insert, and when I went to retighten the blade, it was already tight!! The blade no longer wobbled and spun true. My guess is that the wobble I saw was the blade distorted form heat (on closer inspection, the ink on the side of the blade was scrubbed).
I ask the more august members of this site to please comment on my following summary of what went wrong:
1. The most stupid thing I did was having the depth of cut at 2 1/4". Going back to my tablesaw basics book, sure enough, it recommended no deeper than 1" per pass. It does not pay to get in a hurry, although time was not pressing me. I just forgot a basic rule.
2. A contributing factor was that I was using a 40T thin kerf blade (the one that came with the saw). Thinking back, when I had resawed before, carbide tips were the newest thing, but kerfs were still 1/8" and blades thicker. Also, then I considered my 40T my "fine cut" blade, using 36T for most ripping, and if I pushed it too hard, that old inexpensive Craftsman would pop the reset (which had to be disassembled to reset it).
What I think I have learned :
1. If you are new or getting back to it, (re)read all the basic technique advise and pay attention to the details. Having read through thsafety stuff several times, at least I had enough sense to shut it down until I figured out what was wrong.
2. The newer blades, although finer finish and less loss of material, will not take the abuse that the old ones would.
That said, does anyone need a semi-new blade to make a carpenter's clock from?
Also, I would welcome advice on blade brands and tooth selections. Along with the normal structural carpentry, I plan on building some nice furniture ("nice" due to local limitations on materials and financial limitations on the really good stuff). Locally, the best 40,60 and 80T blades available to me here are the Freud Avanti. For fewer teeth, it will be the cheap Dewalt contractor pack or Craftsman (I had to drive an hour each way to get the saw to get to the nearest HD). I'm willing to make a longer drive as long as I know I can get what I need, or also (if necessary) go the internet route.
At your mercy
I have a few question, a suggestion and a comment.
Were you using a featherboard when you made the cut, and if so, where was it placed?
When you say the cut had turned toward the fence, I take that to mean that the board moved away from the fence behind the blade. Is that correct?
Did you measure the kerf cut in the board?
I’m a fan of Freud blades. As of last week, many of their blades were on sale on their web site. BadgerDave will give you more model numbers, but I probably would have used the LM74M010 for what you were doing.
I’m honestly sorry that you feel that is “biting the bullet” to post a question on this board. Maybe we should take a look at what we post with the eyes of a new member. But I still like Lorax’s saracasm.
Sarcasm? Who, me ? ? :p :p
Lorax - I really need to start using those smiley things. Any ideas on Gofor's problem?
Sorry for the delay in reply. Had a family phonecall:
1. The featherboard was ending just before the start of the blade cut
2. Could not measure the kerf because board closed in on blade (wood too wet?) Humidity was not high and board was best grade pine that Lowe''s (can I say that name here?) had to offer. (As I mentioned, no HD close and I live in NC)
3. Nothing moved. Variation in cut was from the blade warping. (almost 1/4")
Lorax, I believe in calling a shovel what it is, so your comments are appreciated. I've been in 2 war zones and spit on when I came back, so my ego isn't tender. I appreciate knowlegeable criticism. Some just throw rocks that don't add to the content. (See the Power tools forum for some examples). A little dry humor is always a plus.
After reading a little more on blades, would I be better suited to use a 24T or 30T blade for resawing. Although I will be doing some 3/4" pine for shop cabinets, I will be doing some oak for the in-house stuff.
Perhaps I need to pick up a TS basics book myself, I was unaware of that 1” rule but it makes sense, if the teeth do not make a through cut and get some air to cool off, they could get pretty hot especially if the saw was the least bit misaligned. I recently took advantage of a promotion form Infinity and received a 24 tooth TK blade with stabilizers free for ordering $100 worth of router bits. I tried it out and was very impressed. Lessen learned: when making initial cut through ZCI and blade becomes hard to raise, stabilizers don’t have teeth on them, they just burn ZCI. I decided to pull out my Freud 30 tooth Glue Line Rip blade and do some comparisons by doing some test cuts in varying thickness of Oak, Cherry, Walnut and Maple. There are two models of the Freud blade, LM74R010, which has their non-stick coating, and LM74M010, which does not and is the one I have. The TK Infinity definitely made it easier to push the board through and left a smooth unburned finish. When I put the Freud back on, I had to slightly slow down the feed rate and obtained the same results with the exception of the finish was even smoother, it had a polished feel to it. I have no doubt you could glue up boards with either one straight off the saw, it might take about two swipes of fine sandpaper for the Infinity board to feel as smooth as the Freud. If the Freud was a 10, the Infinity was surely a 9. I have a Forrest WWII that I keep on the saw and have quit using the rip blades out of pure laziness but after doing this little test I plan on taking the couple of minutes to change blades when the need arises. I will probably use the Freud for 5/4 and less stock and the Infinity for thicker since it removes less stock and is easier to feed. One last note, when switching from full-kerf to thin-kerf with stabilizers, there is an additional time element involved because the splitter has to be readjusted. I apologize for the ramblings and hope it helps in your blade search.
Gofor, I'm wondering if maybe the blade is slightly off parallel to the fence? I'm relatively new to woodworking (my Dad has a nice shop, and taught me some, but that has been a good number of years), but one thing I remember distinctly and have always done is to check and recheck the blade/fence alignment.
Grizzly has a nice dial caliper set for sale, for a very good price. Here's a link to it: http://www.grizzly.com/products/H3022
You can easily make a jig for that that rides in the miter slot and check the blade parallel. You could also use it to check the fence for parallel.
I also wanted to take a moment to thank you for your service to our country, Gofor. I'm very appreciative of those who go to a foreign country and insure I have the right to sit here and post silly things!!! I don't mean to belittle anything by that joke. I truly do appreciate those in the armed forces for all they do for us.
Thanks for the replies. Looks like I'll need to take a day and really comb the area hardware stores to see what's available, particularly in the 24 & 30T. Also, thank you Woodslayer for including the model number. One thing I've learned from this forum is that brand name doesn't always mean quality. I knew that applied to power tools (i.e Dewalt has some good ones that really stand up and some cheaper ones that are for the week-ender) but didn't realize it also applied to bits and blades, so knowing which model/style is best helps.
I think that another problem with the blade I used was the shallow gullets. A combo style even in the 40T probably would have helped. Also have rechecked alignment and all seems to be good.
Have you thought about making a splitter for resaw? I saw one somewhere on the internet(not sure where) It was made of wood, fit in the splitter slot behind the blade, and came up close behind the blade in an arc. I burned up a good blade last year doing resaw on my table saw. Taking smaller cuts didn't help. The wood begain curving in on itself. I believe that only a splitter would help. Of course a bandsaw would be the tool of choice for resaw.
I saw something too
I saw something like that too in one of my books maybe...
Basically it was just a zero clearance throat that had the kerf cut out the back and he inserted like a 2" x 2" x 1/8" hardboard with a taper on the leading edge.
It was really simple and seemed to be the perfect solution.
haha! But what do i know, i'm just a newbie running around here... :p