The thing is heat from typical use is usually well within the operating range of the battery as far as heat damage goes. Normally that should not be a problem unless the battery is getting seriously overworked, in which case force cooling is definately a bad idea if you hope for you batteries to last. Actively passing cool air past the cells like Bosch does is a good idea because it helps radiate a little of the heat away like a heatsink at a slower, more controled rate. The battery can only get as cool as the air that passes through so thats not a problem unless you work in freezing weather (at which point the batteries would not operate well anyway). The problem with sticking it in a cooler right after use is that they will cool way too fast and unevenly. Kind of like putting a grill all the way up and sticking a burger in it. It will burn outside and stay raw inside, just reversed. The inside of the cells will be way hotter than the outside as they cool and that's whats potentially damaging. Every battery maker I've seen advices agaisnt it. Also, if you let it cool too much the battery will not take a full charge. Some chargers have a cold delay so the battery will not charge until it hits operating room temps. Kind of makes it pointless to over cool the battery to speed charging up. One thing that can help is storing a charged battery that was already at room temp in a cooler (not freezing!). For many NiCad batteries they will hold up to 90% of their charge for extended periods instead of being drained in a couple of days/weeks. As you mentioned you still need to be carefull because condensation can short it out. After the rash of shorted exploding Li-Ion laptop batteries lately I'd be especially wary of this! :D
Battery Problem Too
I've recently aquired an 18V RIDGID combo set, and seem to have the same problem red-hot-farmer had...
We use the Reciprocating Saw to cut out crates for easier handling when empty. The problem is we had a LOT of them, so after making sure the batteries were fully operational, I started with the cutting...
10 minutes into it, battery 1 is VERY HOT, and dies on me... Weird, but fine, switch to battery 2, 10 more minutes and presto, battery hot & dead... Now I'm wondering if I made a good purchase, since I get 20 minutes of work done, but I need to wait roughly 1 hour to fully recharge both batteries...
If you're inquiring about the weather, I live in Trois-Rivières, Qc, Canada, and it was roughly 35 F outside and sunny. Why are the batteries not giving me the expected workload?
Frustrated power tool user...
That definately sounds like a problem you have there.....a wiring problem of some sort for sure.
I wouldn't say you have bad batteries, My experience shows that for some reason sawzalls seem to use the most power and use up batteries the fastest. Mine do the same. Thats why I bought extra batts.
If you bought the older 18V set (922 or 923) it only comes with 1.9AmpHr batteriy. This is a little low compared to the competition. For example the M-brand Sawzall has a 2.4AmpHr battery. The newer set (9213 or 9223) comes with 2.5Amp batteries.
Originally Posted by INTERCLOTURES
Additionally, the batteries will not develop their full potential till 4-6 charge cycles (this helps break up the crystals and break in the batteries.)
You might expect 20% better performance...say 12 minutes, once the batteries are fully conditioned and maybe 15 to 17 minutes if you stepped up to the 2.5AmpHr batteries.
For constant work, without much pausing, that is reasonably what you can expect from NiCd battery powered reciprocating saw. You could expect a little more runtime from the 24V Lithium Ion Ridgid or similarly from Competitive brands with Lithium Ion batteries.